Need for "tactical" scopes

[Glock119]

[ QUOTE ]
One last question. Why do many LR shooters settle on the mid-power optics? Wouldn't you want as much power as you can get when taking shots at 600+ yds?

[/ QUOTE ]

Were you trying to sneak in a question? That is two questions. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img]

Craig for me it was 2 fold. First were I live getting out past a few hundred yards means I have to take a trip north to shoot at those longer ranges during hunting season. And The closest 1000 yrd ranges either north or south of me is N - 2.5 and S - 3.5 hrs away. So for me when I made my purchases I wanted a scope that I could use both short and longrange. This was the only way I could justify the cost was to get something I could use anywhere both local or away on any hunting trip I might ever do.

Second was personal choice. On my 300 weatherby I had bought a 8-25x50 and although I could use it for a spotting scope and look through the windows of a home about a mile away up on the hill, I found it very hard to keep it steady enough at that high of power. So when I bought another rifle I had tried the 4.5-14 and found that perfect for me at least for the ranges I planned on using it for, anywhere from 50 up to 1000 yds. I got the 3.5-10 for a hunting rig that I wanted to be able to use it at 25 - 500yds and have found this to work for me perfectly. And when we go to where we can shoot father it still works.

Basically you will have to decide what you really want to do with the rifle and scope, which means you might say well realistically I will only ever shoot out to 600yrds based on where I live or the type of hunting I want to do and then buy a scope and rifle that fills those needs.

I have in the past bought to much gun and to much scope for anything I would have ever wanted to use it for, well thats not really true as what I wanted to do and what I could really do is two different things, anyway I found that I just never really used it. Whats the point of having it if your never going to use it? If you want to waste money buy the biggest scope they make and the biggest rifle you can have built, then let it sit in a case in the corner until that one day you get your chance to go shoot at 2 miles or whatever. See that would be no fun, But if you buy something that allows you to always play were ever and when ever you want and also allows you to play out to 1000yrds it is a whole lot easyer to justifie the cost. Do you see what I'm trying to say?

Good luck with whatever you decide. Just make sure it is something you will be able to use and enjoy. Remember you can always upgrade. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

Ben

[Brien]

i have one concern about hunting with the MK4.. it may or may not be a reasonable concern cuz i have never hunted with one...
with the knobs exposed how do you know you havent rubbed against something with the knobs on your back or pack and have changed POI .. do they just not move while manuvering in the field or do you constantly look at the zero (i know they turn maybe alittle harder than standard knobs just dont know about accidently) i had one recently and had excellent clarity and movement in the knobs but i never fielded it for myself. with the need for a bigger scope for competition (needed to be able to see bullet holes at 500yds) i traded it off (probably a big mistake). i was just curious cuz i may end up getting another one with the mildot later on so i can shoot unknown distance competitions and hunt with it on a lighter weight sporter rifle..
Brien

[ds]

It is worth paying for reliabilty and repeatability the rest is icing on the cake. The hard part is once you know your price range and an idea of the features that suit you is getting the best option from a number of choices.

An example I have a S&B PM2 and a Nightforce NXS 12-42 x 56 R2. For paper punching the NXS is excellent, even for most of the "tactical" competions where I live it has advantages over the S&B, like not needing a spotter out to 200m. The reticle is finer but still visible so allowes for a finer aim. If you dont want all the magnification you can turn it down.

The S&B has some advantages also it has better depth of field, slightly better optics and seems easier to use at night (even without a lit reticle). What I am trying to say is that it depends on what you want to do. For LR shooting if you look at publications like PS magazine Nightforce or Leupold seem popular. I guess with good reason.

I would give thought to things like first or second plain reticle. turret adjustments, in relation to reticle choice. A mildot or MLR reticle suits 1cm adjustments (milrad reticle and .1 milrad adjustments)or an NPR2 type reticle (MOA based)with 1/4 MOA turret adjustments ( the Nightforce BR series has 1/8 MOA adjustments). Again "tactical" scopes may offer course adjustments 1/2 or 1 MOA per click but for LR paper or varmints it is hard to see the need and easy to see disadvantages. Parallax adjustment is a must, front or side, take your choice they both work with minor advantages or disadvantages over the other. Elevation adjustment, if you are this side of 1000m then 65 or so MOA seems more than enough with a 20MOA decline base so a 30mm tube should be fine. Much seems to be written on optical quality and this or that glass but good lens coatings seem to make the difference small. Just some thoughts.

If it helps a little I am happy, if it adds to the confussion I am sorry.

David.

Ps. If you want sell something, make it black and call it Tactical.

[Ian M]

Very simple, large turrets like the MK4 etc. do not move unless they are manually clicked. Use them for a while and you totally disregard the possibility of accidental unwanted movement because it doesn't happen. At least it has never occured during my use. Plus the turrets are "slipped" or zeroed so you could easily tell if it moved from zero at a glance.

[Brent]

Ditto what Ian said.

[Glock119]

Like Ian said there is no need for concern. And if you have had one or have at least seen a tactical scope any brand you will have noticed they are marked and turrets can be zeroed and at a glance you can see weather it has been moved.

I doubt you will ever see the thing move unless you do it manually like Ian said but should it ever happen you will know instantly.

Also like Dave said, figure out where your budget will let you spend, as every decision revolves around money. Then just find the scope with all the features you want or need in your scope. Just don't get hung up on a name or brand, But with that said remember that for the most parts you get what you pay for, at least with the higher end tactical scopes.

Good Luck,
Ben

[craigp40]

Thanks guys. You've certainly given me some good information to make a wise decision. I think I have this solved as far as what I want in the scope. Now I just need to determine who's I can afford. The NF is a great scope, but a little more than what I was hoping to pay for it. Maybe an upgrade down the road, but for now I'll have to settle for a mid-priced version.