Hey sidecar, dirtty here, maybe you remember me from previous posts??!! Anyway, as you know I am new to the lr scene, and I too bought into the hype of the burris Sig rings!!!
Based on the the fact that I believe you know what you're talking about, your statement has me concerned that I might be screwing up!!!
The way I understand it, and actually see it(since I actually have them) is when I use my 10, 20, ect insert in the rear ring the 0 insert in the front ring actually cants or rotates itself, then you tighten both rings and there is no bind on the tube.
Now that last paragraph was more of a question rather than a statement of "I know what I am talkin about"!!! So please if you have any input, advice, or knowledge you care to share, I am all ears!!!
Or anybody else that would care to chime in, feel free!!!
I really have no input because I've never mounted anything with the(Burris) rings. I probably should go buy a set and fiddle with them.
So I have to say, good luck. If they were so good, why isn't everyone using them??
I guess my concept is you rotate the insert to give an approximate inclination and the clamp the upper halves to the lowers, is that correct? If so, what keeps the tube in alignment in relationship to the front ring versus the rear ring? If you rotate the insert and clamp the rear ring, leaving the front ring loose and then clamp the front, what aligns the front insert? There has to be a frictional resistance as the upper half is clamped. In my view, that resistance equates to misalignment and stress on the tube and we all know tube thickness isn't that great and it's usually aluminum and soft as in easily deformed.
Bottom line. it's your scope. I'll stick with conventional rings and a cant rail that I can align ring set to ring set, line lap for contact and never be concerned about undue stress on the tube.
If I was shooting a hundred yards, it's not an issue but 1000 yards and every discrepancy becomes an issue and a potential failure.
I'm going to order a set and do some fiddling to satisfy my own curiosity.
'It's not about me, it's about we'..........
I'm puzzled why you're puzzled about how the Signature rings work. Think pillow block bearings on a shaft and it should become clear.
A shaft supported by two (misaligned) pillow block bearings has no stress and is held in alignment. The offset inserts are like shims that allow either pillow block to be offset left, right, up or down by a known amount. The spacing between blocks is known, so the offset amount needed to correct any alignment error is easily calculated. Does that help?
This is the one I have mounted with a 20 MOA Picatinny rail made by EGW and Burris low Extreme Tactical rings plus a custom turret. I have cranked the turrets up and down hundreds of times and they have always been exact. I love this scope.
I would hate to see you spend the money on a product you don't need, but I would love too hear about your results sidecar!!!
Thanx for tryin to help explain more clearly Bruce, maybe the bearing will help draw a better pic for him! I really thought it was quite an innovative product, but I don't claim to know much more than the front of the gun from the back at this point in the lr game!!! Ha!!
That is a really cool, and neat lookin wrap you have on that gun in the pic you sent Joseph!! What's it called, and who makes it??
Thanks for the replies so far gents! I actually e-mailed Leupold a couple of days ago and asked if they would extend their "professional" discount to retired military, no response so far.
Flip, the Signature rings work on the same principal as the Messerschmitt bearing designed by the German engineer Willy Messerschmitt. They use eccentric inserts that rotate inside the rings until clamping force is applied. It would be difficult to torque a scope tube with them. I have several sets and have had good luck with them so far. The same principal as setting a sine bar to a given angle with space blocks.