I use mil dot scopes on all of my rifles and "practice" using them to range every chance I get, but I will use a laser at the drop of a hat if given the choice. That is if I have one with me, it is working with batteries and can get a "good" read with what and range I have to work with. In other words, the mil dot range is my plan B, but sometimes that is all you get.
I make a picture of a mil-dot reticle on paper. The size of the paper fits into the inside cover of my Butler Creek Scope cover.
The distance between the dots is 3.5 MOA (You need to know what power setting that is true at on your scope). Then I print out a chart using exbal for my particular load. I then write the yardage distance point of impact for each dot.
Then I cut this out and paste it into my Butler Creek Scope Cover on the Eye piece cover. When I open the cover, I am looking right at the chart. I then use my range finder to determine distance to target. In hurried conditions, I look to see which dot to hold near to hit my target. This is not a perfect method, but gives me a very refined guess for the proper holdover.
In my particular setup, with a 200yd zero, the second dot is has a 536yd POI. If I range an elk at 500 yards, by looking at my little chart, I know to hold the second dot just near the bottom quarter of his chest to put a bullet thru the center of his chest.
In a ddition to this crude scope cover chart, I also have a piece of paper taped to the side of my rifle that has a full break down of Yardages in 25 yard increments out to 1000yds, with a listing of how many MOA I need to dial into my scope. That is what I would use for long range shots if I had more time to setup. It is the more accurate way of shooting.
But if time does not permit proper setup, I can use the mildot holdover chart for getting close. Itís still a lot better than just guessing.
So no, I don't use the mildots for ranging. Even though an elks chest is approximately 34" tall, as another poster mentioned, they do vary and so does your angle of view on the animal.
I always use a range finder and dial in the proper elevation. The Mildot is a back up system, or if the exact range just happens to be the same as one of my dot holdover points, I will just use that for holding dead on my target.
Hi, I know how to use mill dots and carry a milldot master but only just in case my crf 1200 sh1t's itself . one of the best uses I find for milldots is for spotting misses and correcting your scope, It's easier to correct for a good second round hit when you can see it's one milldot low so you need to come up 3.6moa etc. I use a leupold tactical spotting scope with reticule and although it's image isn't quite up there with swarovski/leica etc the reticule more than compensates in my opinion?
as a side note sort out with your spotter what corrections to use before you start shooting that way you should both be singing the same tune!3 moa is a lot different to three milldots and alot of people find milldots a very dark science !!
700 yrds. is a long way for reliable mil-dot rangeing. If you were doing it alot and know the size of your game and use a real flat shooting round you might get good enough for deer or carabo size game, but definately not varments. I`ll continue to carry my range finder and dial in my moa.
are the first "older technologies", about Nam era good for "minute of man" and may be used for finer adjustments if you practice, practice and practice AND, the big qualifier ( for a clicker) if your scope reticle accurately moves to the specified clicks. USO, NF and Luepie only are the scopes that I know of the meet those requirements. IMHO, as an Older Generation myself, I like the KISS Principle : keep it simple stupid: clicks and reticles are the same in MOA in a quality scope.
Just my opinion and findings trying mildots, Mildot Master, footballs, metrics etc. I don't think in metric but it is more adaptable and simple for those who can reprogram their thinking into cm, meters and "Clicks" ( both kinds ). Overbore
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