When I set up my rings, I too push both forward as far as they'll go in the slot. Why not take advantage of a built on recoil lug? I then finger tighten the 1/4" bolt and set the lapping bar in the lower halves and press it down a bit. The I tighten the 1/4 bolts to 65in lbs each with slight pressure on the bar. The cleat on the lower ring is bevelled, and will pull the ring up and into the base dovetail, seating it where it's going to seat.
Now the rings are about true (probably more than acceptable with badgers) but to meet Nightforces' warrenty requirements I lap the rings for the NXS. I find the Sincliars lapping kit to be fine, and easily lapped the lower halves in about 5 minutes the first time. Each subsiquent time it's taken two or three passes to ensure they're still strait and I re-blue and drive on. I've never done MkIV rings, but here the older cast one are much harder to lap.
I originally took the lowers to 100% and the uppers to 50% lapped. I won't do it again. I think that Brent is spot on, and the uppers are pretty much along for the ride unless the ring screws bind and twist the cap or the cap contacts the lower,, both bad juju IMHO. Now it's 70% on the lowers,, none on the uppers unless I see something I don't like.
I have a set of max-50's with a M3LR in it that have never been lapped. Scope has been in and out a few times, and the scopes/ring combo has been on and off several times. Always returns to zero and no ring marks at all. That's ben my expierence with each of my badger set ups, and now all but one of my scoped rifles have badger bases to aid in scope swaps. Quality pays for itself.
Premier sells a nice in lbs torque screw driver for doing ring caps, (2 in lbs to 25 in lbs) but she's not cheap at over $100. I use the supplied tool and tighten the ring screws with the small end of the tool in my fingers. This keeps me from overtorquing (so far at least).
Brent and Chris,
Thanks for your info on lapping rings. This is a task that many hunters and shooters are not familiar with. Your use of the lapping bar for initial setting up of the rings is very logical. The bar should be as straight as the scope tube will be. I was introduced to this stuff by a very good rifle-builder several years ago and he obviously got me on the right path.
Interesting point about only applying force with the short end of the little allen wrench (or TORX), that does not seem like a lot of torque but obviously it is all that is needed with four-capscrew rings. I "bit the bullet" and got one of those torque screwdrivers, no excuse to over-tighten anymore...
Chris, I am like you in that I switch scopes regularly on a variety of rifles, and I find that the properly set-up Badgers return to zero with amazing accuracy. No doubt using the torque wrench helps as I am assured of uniform tension on the 1/2 inch nuts.
How do you like the torques screwdriver? Is it worth the money?
I never gave lapping much thought, but when scopes start to cost more than 2 weeks take home,, I want to protect my investment. For the few extra dollars a good base costs, and 30 minutes to lap and re-blue the lower rings,, it's good piece of mind.
I've seen a set of rings that were overlapped [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img] That's another reason I only go to 70% now... Talk about a scope slipping,,, YIKES.... Tossing a $100+ set of rings would ruin my week. LOL....
The torque screwdriver is very nice to have, particularly if you like to vary your scopes and mounting systems. Mine is made by Mac Tools and it is called a Torque Screwdriver No. TSM2-36. The range on the dial is from 0 to 36 pounds in 1/2 pound increments. I went to Home Depot and bought some #10 and #15 TORX attachments for it and also some small Allen heads. My Brownells screwdriver tips will also fit nicely.
You are correct, it is expensive, but it is a good tool that will prevent over-tightening and give you confidence that the setting is repeatable.
Here we go again! Everything is dry and is at 25 inch pounds. But it is moving a little.I swear I'm going to break out the sandpaper and epoxy glue.I think the problem is a combination of the VERY slippery Nightforce finish,the slippery plastic inserts,and the heavy scope.
Suggestions to stop movement without replaceing rings welcomed. [img]images/icons/mad.gif[/img]
I'm not sure I'd epoxy it in, but you might try to rough the inserts up a bit if you're not willing to torque it down more. I put a bit more torque on mine than I can with the allen wrench standing on end. I use the long end and probably add another 1/4 turn, not enough to worry about stripping or breaking anything by no means but just enough to put more clamp on it. I have done the same to my 4 screw ring caps and they are no doubt clamping harder because of the 4 screws. I'd worry more about crushing the tube with 4 screws than I would 2 on the Burris rings.
You'll have to be the deciding one though.
They do have a stick on paper type friction strip with some rings, can't remember which brand though. I never use them, but you might get them at a gun shop, they usually have them for when they install scopes.
To each his own. But why not just solve the problem and buy some rings? You have wasted more money on ammo etc. than the cost of rings and every time you pull the trigger you will be looking at the scope to see if it moved. Life is to short! You have an exepensive scope that is useless if it moves around and you know it moves. Do you have the patent on burris rngs or some thing?
GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR PROBLEM