According to the info you provided you have 12MOA of travel (total, up and down). You can never use a tilted rail that is inclined more than about 40% of your adjustment range, since you still need a reserve to zero the scope after it is installed. Thus the best inclined rail you could do is 5MOA (1/12th of a degree) - hence why I suggested using a feeler gauge set and trying one after another as a shim under the back of a flat base.
As I said, the best you can do (with a long zero at 250 yards) is 575 yards. And that would require that you figure out how to install your scope so that no (zero) elevation adjustment is needed after installing and sighting. That might be a nice challenge for a machinist, but it would be cheaper to just get a decent scope.
I fail to understand how you can afford a savage 308 with a 26" barrel (so either a model 12 or any model with an aftermarket 26" barrel) and then not have $200 to buy a good used centerfire scope ? Even people for whom 100 yards is a long shot are not trying to use air rifle scopes ? Lets not forget that ammo is currently running $1.50 to more than $2.0 per cartridge unless you have a bunch squirreled away so ammo will quickly cost way more than what we are discussing for an entry level scope.
Originally Posted by minkman1
ok..i I guess I will not really know tell I try to sight it in. at the time this scope was a high dollar scope for air gun shooters and 22lr shooters. it is still the go to scope for competion airgun shooters. the glass is so clear airgun shooters sight there guns in at yardages on how clear the yardage focus is at each spot on the yardage turret. I think I paid 500.0 for it back in 1981. i might need to put it on a 10/22 rifle. would make a good gopher gun. has clear glass out to 50 x . marty