How bad is bad?

[gih]

Great info -- I'll check the crown under magnification and report back if I find anything. I'm still interested in the technical question about the optics:

If the scope lost zero recently and without me doing anything (like dropping it), is that an indication that the scope may have been moving around all along? I've had terrible consistency out of this rifle compared to a lower quality rifle that I also shoot in the same caliber. It's driving me nuts.

[deerkiller]

Originally Posted by gih

removing material from the stock wherever a rub mark was evident

rear screw first as recommended by the majority of Savage nerds I have read.

I like my Savages.
Just the same the most difficult to sort out new rifle I succeeded in straightening out was a Savage synthetic stock sporter.
Among other problems were six stock to metal contact points that should not have been.
A little sanding was it took to give the rifle a chance to shoot small groups.

Everyone I've spoken with about Savage action screw tightening says FRONT screw FIRST.
For what it's worth.

Good luck
dk

[gih]

Oops, yeah -- front first. I typed it backwards but did it right. They say it puts the stress away from the lug.

[gih]

OK, so my scope failed to hold zero and then did not adjust correctly. I have a better scope on the way.

I did find a burr at about 5 o'clock when facing the business end of the barrel and have a lapping tool on order.

[justgoto]

That is exactly what my scope was doing. I took it off and am getting a Bushnell Elite 3200.

[gih]

I'm taking off a used Simmons Aetec that was only a temporary place holder and sending that to Bushnell for repair. It's being replaced with a Millett LRS-1, which I expect to perform significantly better at more than 2x the cost.

That's not an invitation for anybody to jump on about US Optics, etc.

[kweidner]

You will like the Millet. Good scope for the money. Sure it will fix the wandering POI. Take your time on the crown. It can make a really bad shooter good or an OK shooter go really bad if your not careful. Go slow straight and consistent. I usually chuck the brass inserts in my cordless drill and start with 400 grit and work my way to the finest grit I can get my hands on. Make sure to hold it straight. You aren't in a speed race. I set my Makita to one on the speed setting and check things often as I go. It probably won't take much if it is a tiny burr. After you got things right, when you shoot a couple rounds your muzzle face should have a nice star on the end of it with all the points being nice and sharp from the even gas release. Make sure to thoroughly clean all the lapping compound up after you finish BEFORE you shoot it. Also use plenty of compound (it's cheap) Let us know how it goes.