The Burris 3X9X40 with a Ballisticplex would be your best dollar value. The scopes are made in US by Burris (who is now owned by Nikon I think). The Fullfield II scopes are your best bet for weight, eye adjustment, etc. Since you have gone back to a 500 yd max, the whole game has changed. Any decent Leupold, Burris, etc will work. Even the older models of Leupold (Vari X III) are great scopes and can be bought off EBay at good prices. Another concept you might consider is putting a MilDot reticle in an older Leupold for the value (look at the "MilDot topic in this area). You need to run a ballistic runout on your load and figure out your Maximum Point Blank Range (use a 6" standard). This will keep you at +or- 3" all the way out to your max MPBR. Then you'll know how much holdover you need out to say 600 yds. You can then paractice to gain confidence & skills to advance someday. Most game is shot ay way under 500 yds in most hunting situations. If you are shooting farther than that it is by choice and design usually. The Burris 3X9X40 matte finish Ballisticplex sells for under $200.00 in most magazines and is ready to fly. This may be your best bet to gain experience. Send me your bullet & velocity and I could run you an example which might make more sense.
I am new to the forum and long range shooting. I have a question regarding the "dial in" method of shooting. I have only used the hold over method while deer hunting but reading several of the articles in this forum, knowing the exact range and dialing it in is the most accurate way of hitting what you are aiming at. What is the best way to begin practicing at long range. Is it best to start your zero at 100 yds and use a bullet path chart for the given load that you have (new to reloading as well)? Or is it best to have your zero at 200 or 300 yards and go from there? If I am zeroed at 100 yds and let say my bullet drops 12 inches at 300 yards(just threw in a number), I adjust my target knobs according to how low I will be hitting at 300 yards, correct? So if I am 12 inches low at 300, I would need to lower my cross hair 48 clicks? I shoot a Savage 110FP in .25-06 with a Tasco World Class 4X16X50. I just bought the rifle wanting to extend my range and shooting capabilities. I hope this is the right place to ask this question. I appriciate any advice you have and I am happing to be part of this forum.
Knappy, how far you sight in depends on what you're shooting. Caliber and animal. I know some guys that sight in at 500 yards.
I'll tell you this, there is no reason to sight in a rifle (except a lever action 30-30 or something like that for close range brush hunting) at 100 yards. I keep my 7 STW sighted in at 200 yards and I'm only 1.2" high at 100. I'd like to sight it in at 300 because I would still only be about 4" high maximum inside 300 yards.
As far as dialing in, the ballistic programs such as exbal work great. But there is no substitute for dialing in at practice ranges and keeping good notes. I like to dial in elevation but I never dial in windage inside of 500 yards I hold left or right. I also do not hunt game past 500 yards (self imposed limit) or shoot at that distance with more than a 10 mph wind. I limit myself to 300 yards in a stiff wind.
These are my personal preferences, everyone is different.
As far as your question about 48 clicks for a 12" drop at 300 yards. You are way way way off, you need about 2 clicks maybe .5 moa not 12 moa. Get a balistics program and run it for your rifle and load. It should get you going and you will be close enough on paper. Then get to the range and find out what it will do in the real world.
Good luck and welcome to Long Range Hunting a habit more expensive and addictive than any drug on the street!
Thank you Johnny for the help. I have my rifle right know, 3.5 inches high at 100 yds. According to the chart I am going off of (Sierra), I should be zeroed at 300 yds. My problem is, I haven't actually shot at 300+ yet. Can you explain how the clicks work out at further ranges beyond 100 yards. I believe I have it down pat at 100 yds, but what am I getting wrong out past that? I know that at 100 yds, 1 click equals 1/4 in. How does it work say at 300 or 500 yds? Sorry, this must seem real basic for everyone, but I have something wrong in my thinking. Thanks once again for your help.
Think of it this way. (if your scope clicks = 1/4" per click)
at 100 yds 1 click = 1/4" and 2 clicks = 1/2".
at 200 yds that same 1 click now equals 1/2" and the 2 clicks = 1"
at 300 yds that same 1 click now equals 3/4" and the 2 clicks = 1 1/2"
at 400 yds that same 1 click now equals 1" and the 2 clicks = 2"
and so on.
also different scopes have different values.
and just remember 4 clicks = 1 MOA not 1" (except for at 100 yds)4 clicks = 1 MOA and 1" in this example
on some of the better scopes (most tactical models) the turrets will be marked a little better than others. for example some of them will have big slash followed by 3 little marks and a big slash (labeled 1) then 3 little ones and a big slash (labeled 2) and so on. the big slash = 1 MOA and each of the little marks =1/4 MOA then all you have to do is go to the range sight in and set turret to zero. then if you have made a range card that tells you how much your bullet will drop in MOA (Minute of Angle) all you have to do is dial it in.
Something like this around turret:
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
the spacing is not correct but you get the idea(i hope)
Example: (and i do mean example) 308 win 165 grain bullet you zero at 100yds. your range card says your bullet will drop
2.0" at 200 yds = 1MOA or 2"......turn turret to #1 take shot
4.9" at 300 yds = 1.5MOA or 4.5"......turn turret to #1 plus 2 little marks take shot
8.3" at 400 yds = 2MOA or 8"......turn turret to #2 take shot
12.2" at 500 yds = 2.5MOA or 12.5"......turn turret to #2 plus 2 little marks take shot
16.6" at 600 yds = 2.75MOA or 16.5"......turn turret to #2 plus 3 little marks take shot
.25 moa = 1 little mark,
.5 moa = 2 little marks,
.75 moa = 3 little marks
so all you have to do is now dial your turret to the # 2 plus two small marks at 500 yds. 2 plus two small marks = 2.5MOA at 500yds or in other words 12.5". Your range card said your bullet would drop 12.2" so as you can see with 2.5 MOA which equals 12.5" your only shooting about a 1/4" high based on this example.This will put you dead on the target with no hold over.
as you can see there is no counting this way which allows you to get on target much faster than counting out the same 11 clicks if you did it your way. But if you use a scope that does not use this type of turret marking, counting may be needed, but not fun.
also if you get some of the target models they too sometimes have their turrets marked in the same manner.
Hope this helps. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]
Before you get too carried away with dialling for distance you might like to check the accuracy of your Tasco's adjustments . They're a lower priced make and adjustments may or may not be accurate .
Make up a target with 4 aiming points in the corners of a 3 inch square . Fire a 3 shot group at 100 yds at the aiming point in top RH corner , adjust scope 12 clicks left and fire another 3 , 12 clicks down and fire 3 more , 12 clicks right and fire 3 more , 12 clicks up and fire 3 more .
First and last group should be on top of each other . Centres of all groups should be in a 3 inch square . Also suggest you see if point of impact changes at different power settings or with movement of the adjustable objective . Borrow a scope collimator for the last 2 checks .
You'll be pushing sh-t uphill in this game if your scope fails these tests .
Thanks Aussie, I appriciate the advice. I will check the accuracy of my scope like you suggested. So my Tasco, more than likely, will not be a good choice for long range shooting? I need to start saving for a better scope I guess.