That video is one of the main reasons I got into longrange shooting and after learning a decent amount over the last year or so I will tell you that that stuff cant work quite as good as it is made out to be.
out to 500yds or so it would work decently well on large game because your variables arent as important. Once you stretch much past that SO MANY other factors come into play, temp, baro, humidity, elevation, EVERYTHING
The turrets in the video I believe some of them John Burns made himself. It is a really cool idea but Ijust dont see how it can work consistantly well at really extended ranges.
if you arent wanting to shoot much past 500yds and are really just wanting to extend your effective deer range check out Kenton Industries, they make some of those turrets
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There are three different ways and each has its followers. Each way MUST BE VERIFIED by field shooting.
1. “ballistic plex reticule” such as offered by Burris is very easy and fast and accurate out to about 500 –600 yds as long as you shoot the caliber and bullet that matches it. You set your gun to zero at one hundred yards and verify that at 200, 300, 400yd, etc that the bullet strikes the target when you hold on the target with the appropriate hash mark. Then when you go hunting and see something you use your laser range-finder and determine the range and use that hash mark in the scope as the crosshair. You can have a custom made reticule that will fit your cartridge and bullet out to further ranges but it will only work for that particular bullet at that particular speed
2. Mil dot reticules. Essentially you zero your gun at 100 (or some other number) and then using a ballistics table convert your drops at every hundred yards to mils. At 500 yds a bullet will drop about 45 inches from a 100 yds zero. This is about 9 mils. So if you ranged a deer at 500 yds you would look through your scope and go down to the 9 mil dot and place that on his shoulder and shoot. The benefit of this system is you can switch bullets, velocities and guns and all you have to do is re-verify your bullet strikes.
3. Target turrets either come on the scope or are after market. Generic turrets are simply graduated from 1 to 50 or some other number (mine run to 55) With target turrets you zero the gun at 100 yds and record the reading on the turret. You then zero the gun at every 100 yd increment out to what ever range you want and record the setting at each range. This gives you a “setting” on the dial that matches the range. When you see and animal you range it out, check you range card for the appropriate setting and then spin the elevation target turret to the number or setting that corresponds to the range and hold the cross hair on the shoulder and fire. Target turrets can be engraved to fit a particular bullet so that instead of the dial just running from 1 to 50 it is graduated in 100’s of yards. This eliminates the need to the little range card but the draw back is that it is costly and only works for a given bullet at a given velocity when you decide to use a different bullet you will need a new custom knob. The generic knobs are adaptable to any bullet at any speed.
Lov. If you live and hunt in an area that is pretty much flat country, you could probably get by with that kind of system. (if the conditions are always the same. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img] Most of us out west live at 4500 to 5500 ft in elevation and hunt up to 11000ft or more. much of the time your shot can be as much as 45 or 50 degrees up or down hill.
The (BEYOND BELIEF) set up can't deal with all those changes and veriables in my opinion.
I'm a Leupold/Unertl kind of guy so here's the way that works for me! On Leupold target knobs on the ones that I have there are 3 small Allan screws in the top of the turrent. I zero at 200 yards and I loosen the 3 screws and I rotate the barrel to "0" and retighten the screws. This is my BASE-LINE ZERO! All other zeros come off of it! I then shoot at all the other ranges...denoting the conditions of BP, Temp, etc. which goes into a DATA BOOK! This procedure has worked consistently well for me all the way out to 1500 yds. with small adjustments made for conditon changes at the varying distances! If you've read this forum much...you'll have read where some of the LR shooters here have made statements that they will take "sighter shots" on a rock or other object at extended ranges before they make a "record shot"! I don't know how well this procedure works because it would seem to me that that would have a tendency to spook the game and in my experience the bull elk in Colorado have excellent ears! IMO....with an accurate rifle/load....and a good shooting position....with much shooting under varying conditions and after learning to dope the "wind devil"....you'll learn to get real close if not right on with your first shot! But...it's not something easily learned!
These "Old Timers" here know what they're doing! They have much good info!
Some scopes come with "bullet drop compensators" which are basically target turret knobs calibrated for a specific bullet and muzzle velocity. I had a Bushnell that had several "blank" knobs that you could write on with a felt tip and thus set your ranges on it. My later scopes are set up with target knobs that are engraved in click increments (1/8 moa for mine) and numbered in MOA increments. I have a ballistic program that tells me what the drop is at different yardages and I adjust off it. The program I use also allows me to correct for actual click value on the scope. Some say they are 1/4" but they may be .209" or so...