The one I am currently using is an NcStar (please don't flame me too hard on that, as my budget doesn't leave me with a whole lot to work with) that is a 10-40x50. But I have been eying up A Vector Optics Super Sniper 10-40x60 that features adjustable zeroing, a large sidewheel for quick-focusing capability, a sunshade, and flip-up lens caps.
Does, or has, anyone use(d) either of these scopes?
Well...I'll go ahead and respond. I don't think you're going to get any positive feedback on these scopes. Not be rude but you get what you pay for and these scopes are not top shelf. Picture the following scenerio... You and your buddies are going to a Victoria's Secret Fashion Show and you show up and say, "Hey guys, meet my new girlfriend. She weighs 300 lbs and I met her while shopping for our outfits at the thrift store." This is pretty much the same thing.
I'm not saying these scopes won't work. This is comparing a Porsche to a Ford Fiesta. No comparison. This scope will still help you put a bullet on target. No doubt. But if you ever want to start shooting long range, dump the new girlfriend and pick up one of the VS models!!
Oh yeah, Max Heat, I'm new to long range shooting/hunting too. I just got a good, beginner scope that many in this community either started off with or still shoot. I bought the SWFA Super Sniper 10X42. If money is a concern, I would start with this scope or a Bushnell Tactical 10X40. For the money spent, these scopes are hard to beat!
The ones you mention only go 10x on magnification, which is the LOWEST setting on MY scope. Being that I'm thinking about getting in on BR shooting at my local 1000yd range, in Williamsport, PA, I'm not really seeing the logic in downgrading to 10x, especially now that I am used to 40X. Really, the only time I turn it down from that, is when I'm shooting in the woods, where I run the minimum power of 10x.
Could someone point me in the direction of a reasonably priced, but respected name (not chinese made) and model of scope that goes up to 40x (not fixed power), has 60mm or larger objective, side-wheel focus knob, and adjustable zero?
A low power setting of magnification does not hinder a shooter even at long ranges, i shot at a 600 yd Benchrest Match several yrs ago and shot my best group at the 12X setting on my Niteforce BR it was 1.865" I believe, shooting a 6 dasher.
Most BR shooters in that class rarely go above 24 or 30 X because of mirage.
What matters most at least to me is repetablity of clicking the scope then the optics. If the less expensive do this then use it, but I'd be worried
I understand what you are saying. The devil is in the mechanicals, not the glass. I HAVE already come to believe that when it comes to chinese mechanicals, there IS ALWAYS reason to worry. But I wasn't really thinking about that part of it, as it would apply to a scope. I haven't had it long enough, or shot enough rounds using it yet, to come up with anything definitive yet. I CAN say that I don't like the reticle setup. It has too many horizontal lines, and ALL of the lines are too thick, covering up too much of the target, if it is very small, like say, a bull's eye. But for the 70 bucks that I paid for it (used), I am pretty amazed at what I got.
I also have a jap (tasco) 6-24x40 scope. But That one also has x-hairs that are too thick for my liking, as compared to my brother-in-law's leupold 6-18x(40 or 50, I forget), on his 22-250. I could have the reticle on the tasco changed to one that has very fine x-hair lines like the leupolds have, right? I do love running high power (40X) though, where you can see where your shots landed (holes in paper targets, for example) at long ranges, without the need for a spotting scope. As far as mirage goes, I haven't encountered it yet, because I bought the scope during the winter months, and it hasn't gotten hot enough yet this year. I take it that the point about that is, that the higher the magnification level that you use, the harder it is to see your target clearly through the mirage. The power CAN be turned down, when the phenomenon does present itself. But then the question becomes: Does the scope's zero drift, as the power level ring is turned? With a top-end brand, THAT issue should not need to be questioned, right?
With all of the money I've spent on other things recently, I won't be able to afford any top-end optics, at least in the near future. Would I be better off putting the tasco back on my LR rifle for now? If it turns out that the NcStar cannot hold it's zero, or something like that, I WILL go back to the tasco. I know someone that has a tasco 6-24x50mm that I think he might be willing to hook me up with, real cheap. He has already GIVEN me the sunshade off of it. But it won't fit mine, because at the time, I didn't realize that mine was only a 40mm. Should I look into picking up the 50mm tasco, or is that brand also considered to be sub-standard, for precise LR shots (even if the reticle is changed to fine-wire x-hairs)?
Running cheap optics is always more expensive in the long run, money saved initially is then spent trouble shooting your setup. After having messed around with cheap optics to start with, I can say from personal experience you are handicapping yourself immensely. You'll be amazed at how much easier shooting is when you have rock solid, reliable equipment to learn with. There are many affordable offering such as the Vortex PSTs, sightron SIIIs, weaver tac series, etc. A used 6-24 SIII will run you $600-650, vortex vipers (older ones, like the 6.5-20) and weavers less, PSTs a little more. Even with a fixed power such as the bushnell 10x or swfa super sniper 10x at around $200 I believe, will be a huge improvement optically and more importantly mechanically.
Look up what a box test is (explained way to many times before) then run one with your scopes, reliable tracking is an absolute must for LR shooting if you plan on dialing any adjustments.
Nothing about LR shooting/hunting is cheap unfortunately.
"Out of range" is a theoretical concept as far as I'm concerned. Send it!