I always thought the best scope was the one that got the job done when you needed it [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img]. If the opportunity comes and you only have a Tassco,lupy, NF, U.S. Optics or bushnell and it gets the job done then it is the best scope. Don't know if some of you all are old enough to remember but, way back when the best scope was no scope because they hadn't been invented.
STL hopes that makes you feel a little better. Personaly I had never used a scope only iron sights but, after coming on board I started to learn about them and if money was no object I would go with a U.S. Optics with a custom reticle then would choose a NF.
Thats about all I can get for my dime [img]images/icons/tongue.gif[/img].
Courage,Spirit and Honor
Pass It On
Best optics are on the Souther fixed power scopes. They are insanly rare and expensive.
I have 36 scopes Leupolds, Lymans, Unertls,Davis, Weaver(ElPaso's) , B & L, and Litcherts. My clearest scope is a Lyman Super Target Spot 30X made in 1953. It is only a slight improvement over Leupolds.
Leupold is clearest of my internaly adjustable scopes. No NFS , so I have no opinion good or bad on them.
BTW: If you remember shooting with a Souther scope you are giving away your age. LOL If not they were custom scopes handmade by Mr. F. Herman Souther of Medford, Mass. in 1930's. Only available in 10, 12, or 14 power.
Well, I tried to inject a little humor in a discussion that, in my estimation, always falls just short of actually coming to meaningful conclusions. I see that said humor was lost on some of us... My bad - I'll try harder next time.
But seriously, I've come to believe that the issue of "which scope is the best" only addresses a corollary of the real question. That is, do I want to depend on
a system of moving parts, or do I want to depend on a non-moving graduated reticle, for holdover?
In recent months I have tested the following: (2) Bausch and Lomb 4200 6-24s, (1) Leupold Vari-X II 3-12, (1) Leupold 6.5-20 Vari-X III LR, and (get this!) the aforementioned Nightforce NXS 5.5-22 and Nightforce 3.5-15 NXS. I have come to the conclusion that, in each case, movement of the erector tube is inconsistent at cold or very cold temperatures.
For instance, at 600 yards, wouldn't we all agree that a 1/4 minute click should equal approximately 1.5"? Well, on a number of occasions, I have seen the centers of groups vary from 1/4 to even a 1/2 minute from expected centers after an adjustment... At double or triple that range, we know what the result will be. And this happens on my Leupolds, B&Ls, and yes, even on my beloved NFs...
So, I have come to the personal decision that I don't want to move ANYTHING if I don't have to.
Does this mean I will zero the Wolf for 2 "range ranges", 1 being, perhaps, 0 - 1200 and another, perhaps 600-1800. Maybe. That'd mean I depend on one and only one vertical adjustment to shoot from 0 - 1800 yards at 22x.
Or maybe I'll adopt the S1 method of zeroing the scope at 22x at long range on the main crosshair, which'd let me shoot way out there, but then drop the power to 11x for close shot at 100-500, which would now be on the reticle...
I don't know which method I'll base my future long range shooting on. What I do know is that, as of right now, I don't want to depend on sloppy mechanical adjustments of the erector tube for each and every shot.
That's my goal, that's my humble process right now and that's why the R2 is so important to me right now. Now, if I could just get an R2 in a Supah Snipah... [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img]
I'll certainly let you guys know how it goes as the weather warms and I can get out and continue this testing.
Peace and Love...
STL. Principal Consultant and Managing Partner - Association of Bifurcated Tangential Ballistic Apologists, LLP.
I can appreciate the humor and also your cold weather problem with repeatable clicks.
That's another reason I use the click system along with the spotter shot first method. A team member watching the bullet impact (with bigeyes) along with me in the scope, or vise versa is a must for us and the way we like to LR hunt.
Our shots are seldom ever under 1000 yards and normally starting at 1250 and going much further even here in PA.but, especially in Colorado.
I have tried the hold over method and always seem to have the target lined up "between" tick marks and not right on like I can do with the click system. I like to hold a cross hair or dot on a certain part of the animal and not use a "bracket between" two horizontal marks when pulling the trigger.
I can see an advantage in doing it either way for what ever is best for the individual shooter though. If a person is comfortable with one way, that's the system he should use.
It's like scopes, theres no "BEST" scope or shooting system for "EVERYONE". We all are individuels of differnt likes and dislikes and that's good. We can get a better understanding of many procedures used in the shooting world. What works for one, may never work for another.
The NXS does have a very nice reticule for my style of hunting and that is the CH 2 or the NP 2DD which I have on order and should be here anytime.
There happens to be enough elevation in those to reach to where I like to go without holdover.
I also think if your hunting alone and not shooting the extreme ranges we normally shoot
at, a person can make the holdover work well.
For most of the many Longrange hunters I know, the spotter method and click to the shot is prefered in every case.
Our animal targets are not human size with a verticle average, for ranging/shooting , of 6 feet tall.
We are after the kill shot and not a wounding shot, as many snipers do at times.
The R2 would certainly shine well in that senerio.
I guess you could say, "whatever trips your trigger" is whats best for you.
Good shooting to all. [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img] [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img]