Is 50 MOA enough?

[DONTSTROKEME]

I am probably going to put another Nikon Bukmaster 6-18SF 40mm Objective scope on my 270WSM with a 24" tube. My question is this if I plan on shooting upto the rare extreme of 1000yards will that be enough dial range to cover it or should I get a 20MOA base? I have no care as they both cost the same. I would assume naturally with a lesser quality scope I would want to keepit in the center of it's range more than ever, but I am just not sure how the calculations to get there are. I understand it as: I have 50 total in the scope, centered at about 25 being the ideal 100 yard zero. Then if I add a 20 MOA base then I would be able to dial it for bullet drop a total of 45 MOA????

Also how do I decied if there is need for more range in the drop side of the dialing?

Any help would be appreciated.

Joe OAkes

[Buffalobob]

Unless you have a custom action it is possible that the top of your receiver will not be level and that the 20 MOA base will not be useable or else will not get the job done. Even if the receiver is square it is possible the barrel will shoot low with certain bullets.

My advice would be to get a standard base and use Burris signature rings to build in the cant you need. You might have to remount the scope a few times to get just the right combinations of inserts in but at least you have plenty of combinations to fiddle with.

Not all sets of rings come with all inserts.

[Eaglet]

In the past I have done what buffalobob said!

[CatShooter]

What BB Said.

All but two of my rifles are set up with Burris "Signature Zee" rings... I have use the combination that lets the 100 yd zero be at the bottom of the elevation turret, so I have "All up".

.

[DONTSTROKEME]

Isn't that putting a tweak on the scope?

Can I have the reciever trued? The main reason I wanted to do this was to use the picatanny rail system and some TPS or sinclare or farrell rings. Or is all of that just a waste of quality?

Joe Oakes

[Buffalobob]

The inserts prevent a tweak to the scope.

If you don't like that solution, there is the hard way to do it. Many people like doing things the hardest possible way. Go and buy your hundred dollar rail and your hundred dollar rings and mount your scope. Zero the rifle and then determine whether you have enough elevation left on the dial. If not then figure out how much more you need. Take the rail off the rifle. Climb the fence over into your neighbor's back yard where you have been chucking your beer cans and get one and take it to the kitchen. Get the kitichen shears while your wife is not looking and cut out about 10 shims that will fit between the front or rear screws to jack up the front or rear of the base. These shims will have an "H" shape.

Come up on this forum and run "search" the word will be "shim" and the author will be "ABINOK" or "Chris Matthews". The thread you find will tell you the thickness of shims needed to gain 1 MOA of elevation.

Come back up on this thread and ask whether to put the shims under the front or rear of the base. When I tell you which end, [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img] you should put them under the other end being as I am always wrong about that. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img]

Put the shims in and tighten every thing down and shoot the rifle to confirm that it is now correctly canted. If for some obscure reason you got it right the first time then take everything off and get some "glass" and put it all back together again except this time you will glass bed the rail so it is stable. After you get it glassed go outside and grab a brick and whack your self upside the head several time for forgetting to put on the release agent. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

Simple alternative - get a Leupold V3 Longrange

[DONTSTROKEME]

Well thank you very much, I hope I didn't ruffle your feathers by asking why I can't use the canted base.

I can still use the good base just in zero cant?

And the burris ZEE signature rings are what I want?

Joe Oakes