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What does it take to hit at a mile?

 
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  #1  
Old 11-20-2011, 12:02 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Silver City NM
Posts: 68
What does it take to hit at a mile?

So what does it take to hit at a mile? I went out today to stretch the legs of my rifles, and figured I'd try for the 'ol 1760 yards. We set up a 15 inch gong as the target. Had to GPS it because the swaro woldn't give me a reading past 1715, GPS read 1.00 miles. I ranged a midpoint both ways and ended up with a total of 1733 yards.
I am shooting a 300 grain SMK out of a 338 Edge at 2825 fps. I had 53 MOA of elevation and 9 MOA of windage. I didn't connect with the target because I was either just left or just right or just high or just low. It wasn't my spotter miscalling my shots because I was also able to spot most of my shots and verify the impact.
Those of you that shoot and hit a target this size what do you do to maximize your hit ratio?
As far as brass goes I don't turn necks or anneal. Will this make a difference? I have. 002 of neck tension and shoulders are bumped back .002 as well. I didn't weigh cases I'm using Nosler brass.
Bullets were weighed lightest was 299.9 grains and heaviest was 300.1 grains. Lengths varied .009, I tried to trim meplats but the trimmer was a joke so I left them as they came.
Powder was H1000 92.0 grains. From 91.7 to 92.6 there was a 17 fps ES.
primers were FEDERAL 215M.
I was shooting from a solid bench using a caldwell dead shot bag filled with corn cob media (most consistent fill in my opinion) and a sock filled with 1 lb of lentils (don't ask).
So what Voodoo gunnery do I need to be doing to connect?
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175 SMK
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  #2  
Old 11-20-2011, 01:53 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Blackfoot, Idaho
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Re: What does it take to hit at a mile?

Hmmmm, It's late, I'm sleepy, but this was interesting to delve into.

Roughed out some JBM calcs and came up with the following.

1 MOA @ 1733 yds is about 17.33"

Your gong is 15" diameter or about 0.86 MOA or +/- 0.43 MOA from center of gong.

ES of 17 FPS = about +/- 9" (Italian math. . . )

Or 2806 Min and 2824 Max MV.

Assuming a bc =0.77 (works for me at 4488' ASL and "certain enviro. conditions)

This comes out to be about +/- 0.45 MOA spread due to velocity or about

Therefore, by my calculations (Italian math again) with a target of +/- 0.43 MOA and a consistency of +/- 0.45 MOA due to velocity my recommendations are the following to hit your gong.
  1. Shoot more shots. (increase your odds)
  2. Use at least 20" target
  3. The over/under shots are due to velocity differences (Whatcha do about that? I dunno.)
  4. The left/right shots are due to wind. (Set down-range wind flags.)
  5. Up the velocity to about 3300, with the same accuracy and more of those left/right shots will be hits. (Hint, much larger cartridge. Italian thinkin' again)
  6. Go to Shawn's or Darrell's class.
The above list is intended to be at least a little humorous. Hey, I at least tried.


You're shooting very near the capability of your system. You'll find that 90% of the expense of anything is expended on the final 10% of progress.


You're darn close but the learning curve gets steeper from where you are.


If, this is your first stretch to 1 mile, you're doing pretty darn good!
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Old 11-20-2011, 01:58 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Blackfoot, Idaho
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Re: What does it take to hit at a mile?

Duh, double post. Must be gettin' rummy
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Last edited by royinidaho; 11-20-2011 at 02:00 AM. Reason: Double post
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  #4  
Old 11-20-2011, 09:17 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Townsend, Montana.
Posts: 7,900
Re: What does it take to hit at a mile?

I agree with Roy, and I will add a few things as I shoot a mile fairly often.

Me personally would get off the bench. I like the prone position better as it will compress the chest and lessen heart beat pulses.

Secondly, if you are not fine tuning your parralax it could very well be some of the inconsistancy at 1 mile. That knob is NOT a focus.

Choose a time of day when mirage is low. If you are seeing the target center dance around it will definatly open up your groups.

Don't cook your ammo. After the first shot the chamber is warming up. Dont close the bolt and chamber a round till you are close to firing. If one bullet sets in the chamber a little longer and the case and powder gets heated up it will likely go higher. I have found that H-1000 is an awsome powder and is more forgiving than others for this, but I do all I can to make every shot the most consistant I can.

Right before the shot, dig your toes in and preload the bipod with your shoulder. This is an aquired thing that will become consistant with practice. Just enough preload that you can feel the stock on top your shoulder so all slack is removed.

Cheek weld!! The same every time. Get a feel for it and repeat it. ELR shooting is much like shooting a bow. All form and anchor points need to be repeated exactly for good results.

Last, NO shooting matt under either end of the rife. No carpet, no towel nothing. It will open your groups. When getting set up reach forward with your left hand and scratch the legs of the bipod into the dirt. Repeat for each shot. Bags at the back need to be solid as possible. I like to set them high and then wiggle the stock down till I am solid on target and it stays there. Right before the shot, close your eyes and count to two. when you open them, if the sight picture and point of aim has changed you are forcing the rifle to be on target. Try to get it so it will stay on target by it self. I never wrestle with my rifle, I let it ride the bags and I only lightly control it. OH, and don't forget to get one last look at the scope evel just before the break of the trigger.

Jeff --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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  #5  
Old 11-20-2011, 09:37 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Townsend, Montana.
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Re: What does it take to hit at a mile?

I want to add, don't believe all the "mile groups" you see on the net unless you were there. Shooting 1 mile is tough and the varibles like wind and all the error factors stack up fast. My last two groups were 3 shots at 1710 yards. First group went 16" second one went 10". These were better than average for me. I would in no way expect my next groups to be this good. But if they are anywhere near 1 moa I am very pleased. Especially if I am dialing for much wind at all.

Jeff
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  #6  
Old 11-20-2011, 10:06 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 137
Re: What does it take to hit at a mile?

Broz, thats some great info.. I liked it so much that I printed it out as a reference...
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  #7  
Old 11-20-2011, 10:06 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Halfway between Lubbock and Dallas
Posts: 4,785
Re: What does it take to hit at a mile?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Broz View Post
I agree with Roy, and I will add a few things as I shoot a mile fairly often.

Me personally would get off the bench. I like the prone position better as it will compress the chest and lessen heart beat pulses.

Secondly, if you are not fine tuning your parralax it could very well be some of the inconsistancy at 1 mile. That knob is NOT a focus.

Choose a time of day when mirage is low. If you are seeing the target center dance around it will definatly open up your groups.

Don't cook your ammo. After the first shot the chamber is warming up. Dont close the bolt and chamber a round till you are close to firing. If one bullet sets in the chamber a little longer and the case and powder gets heated up it will likely go higher. I have found that H-1000 is an awsome powder and is more forgiving than others for this, but I do all I can to make every shot the most consistant I can.

Right before the shot, dig your toes in and preload the bipod with your shoulder. This is an aquired thing that will become consistant with practice. Just enough preload that you can feel the stock on top your shoulder so all slack is removed.

Cheek weld!! The same every time. Get a feel for it and repeat it. ELR shooting is much like shooting a bow. All form and anchor points need to be repeated exactly for good results.

Last, NO shooting matt under either end of the rife. No carpet, no towel nothing. It will open your groups. When getting set up reach forward with your left hand and scratch the legs of the bipod into the dirt. Repeat for each shot. Bags at the back need to be solid as possible. I like to set them high and then wiggle the stock down till I am solid on target and it stays there. Right before the shot, close your eyes and count to two. when you open them, if the sight picture and point of aim has changed you are forcing the rifle to be on target. Try to get it so it will stay on target by it self. I never wrestle with my rifle, I let it ride the bags and I only lightly control it. OH, and don't forget to get one last look at the scope evel just before the break of the trigger.

Jeff --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
All very sound advice.

I do however like to have a tarp or something out front to cut down dust signature and blow back dust.

As silly as it may sound to some let me add one more.

Try to time your trigger release between heartbeats.

Even the slightest twitch at this kind of range is enough to turn a hit into a miss.
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