Re: Switch barrel build update...new questions
If you want to blueprint a switch-barrel rifle, you should also ask your gunsmith to true-up the flatness of the recoil lug and pin it to the action, as part of the $225 he is charging you for the blueprinting job. While you are at it, ask him to also hollow-out the back end of the firing pin to remove some weight and to replace the factory spring with a Tubb extra power spring. This will cut-down on the lock time and also contribute to improved precision.
Also, you want to punch a timing mark on the face of the recoil lug opposite the receiver, about 1/4 inch from the barrel shank hole, to use as an alignment mark for torquing your barrel, which does not have to go on as tight as the factory installs them. Once you get the barrels tight just past snug, punch a mark on the barrel, opposite the mark on the recoil lug, so you will always have them aligned and at a consistent torque.
As far as handloads go, you will always achieve better precision with any load you develop out of a blueprinted rifle than a 'factory standard' one.
Best of luck,
Joaquin B. in AZ
Last edited by Joaquin B; 03-12-2011 at 03:35 PM.