Boy's, I got a question.. Concerning the stock used on a Sendero, can one "easily" add weight to it? Is the butt stock hollow? How about in the forearm area? I'd like to bring a Sendero up to 15 - 20lbs by simply adding lead.
Anyone ever pull the recoil pad off to see if this can be done?
Nodak...Yes it is pretty easy....The butt is hollow...The forearm is not...The hardest part was getting the old pad off....I would put a new recoil pad on it...The way I did it was,by using a mixture of spray glue and #9 shot.....I would pour in some shot and saturate it with glue,and kept doing that until the butt was full.It added about 3 pound's to the gun....The glue stay's pretty flexible so nothing rattle's around....That the way I did it......Worked for me....With a 6.5-20 Nikon it weighted 13 pound's....
[ 03-20-2002: Message edited by: Boyd Heaton ]
EAGLE VALLEY OFFROADERS CENTRAL,PA
Some Sendaro stocks to have a hollow channel in the forestock under the barrel. Actually it is 3 seperate "hog outs" that are seperated by about a 3/8" wedge.
I've owned as many as 7 Sendaros, both SFs and "regular" Sendaros (regular meaning blued barrel & action). Currently I have 4.
There is no rhyme or reason to the hollow channel in the forestock.
I have one SF Sendaro that has it and I have 1 "regular" Sendaro that has it. The other 2 don't.
I've never thought about adding weight to the barrel channel, but there is ample room to add some lead. I just wouldn't know how to do it. I suppose pouring it in in a molten state could work. As lond as it can cool quickly and not ignite the aramid fiber.
As for the butt, I've done what Boyd suggests. I've also taken a new sock, stuffed it into the recess (with an little extra sock sticking out, taken a funnel, put it in the sock, filled the sock with shot and the sewn the sock shut. Tuck it into the butt, put a decelerator pad on and you're shooting.
Speak softly and carry a really big MAGNUM!!!!!!!!!!!
I filled the but of mine with #8 shot and rubber cement, gota let it sit for a week or two to dry, then i capped it with some epoxy just to be safe, i probably didn't need that but i didn't want any shot to come loose and rattle in the gun. All in all it added quite a bit of weight, with the scope, bipod, base and rings the gun is not nearly as light as i thought it would be.
dunno about 3/4 moa, but after i get done working up sone loads i will let you know [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img]
The lady at H-S said to put the stock in the freezer for 1/2 hr. and it would make the recoil pad easier to remove. I did not do that as I thought it might cause my "skim coat" to break from the different expansion rations alum/epoxy. I removed the recoil pad by going around it very careful with a scapel. Then I epoxied two wood dowels in the cavity to accept wood screws. I "spotted" through the holes in the pad, drilled the dowels and the recoil pad looks very nice. I added enough wgt. to get a rifle with a 30" HV barrel up to 16.4# for 1000 yard BR. Forgot to mention, the recoil pad was held on with 5 min. epoxy, per H-S.