Quote:
Originally Posted by AWOLF
I just put a mark 4 with high ring mounts on the 243. The bottom of the scope is about1/2- 3/4" from the barrel. I had a weaver with low ring mounts and a ton of kills. I mount the mark 4 and zero for one hundred yards. I'm out calling this evening and here comes wiley. He stops at 150 yds and the bullet goes right over his head. I had that weaver so dialed in I new exactly where it would hit. I'm afraid I have to make a trip to the range and see where this pig on a stick will hit at 150 , 200 , 300 . I use to hardly ever miss. Lately it seems that's all I do. I shot better with the cheap glass.The weaver v16 was great for the $. What can you tell me about the ring height ?
I'm trying to post a pic so you can see. This gun has a great history til the scope change. I going to the range this weekend to try to understand what the heck is going on.These two misses with the old setup would have been "Wham Bam TYM!! I can assure I'm not suffering coyote fever at this point in my life. I wish that were the case. I get a little excited but not to where I pee my pants. I was out with a buddy this last weekend. He nearly defacated on himself.Can you tell me what rings I should get. The current rings are heavy duty with four screws on each ring and made of steel. I measured about 1/2" gap (barrel and scope gap at closest point) and had to shim the rear mount I belive about 5 layers of premium coors light shimming aluminum to get it on paper. Thanks
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By raising your scope up off the bore , you have altered your line of sight from your trajectory intersection. You will find that at 200 yards your trajectory is still rising above your line of sight.
The true trajectory , obviously has not changed, just the position that your eye now sees its intersection. It is a bit confusing to explain, but once you hit the range it will become quite apparent what I mean. Basically you have changed the geometry of your rifle and it will take some getting used to it before you are able to have the rifle perform as it did before.
Your drop chart will need to be altered to accomodate your new come up values as well.
I am not sure why so many "experts" insist that the scope be mounted as close to the bore as possible, this makes no sesnse to me unless you have a very short neck.
More importantly your scope should be at a height where the objective is where your eyes center is when you have a good comfortable and repeatable, cheek weld. This can mean having to increase or decrease the ring height AS WELL as the stock cheek rest height.
The secret to accuracy is removing as many variables as possible, so to have your eye and cheek in the same place everytime is of benefit, moving your face to find the optic center of your scope is not conducive to accuracy.
For someone to advise you your rings are too low or too high without seeing where your eye is in relation to your objective lense, and whether you have a good cheekweld, is ridiculous.
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