Originally Posted by mconwa951
Ok so i've done some watching videos on Youtube like the Midwayusa ones just wish he would do one more in depth then just the minute and a half long ones. I also did some research on here and found some other posts sounds like guys are bedding the rear action screw to the recoil lug and free floating the tang and the barrel.
Now the rear action screw has some metal that sits on top i am assuming for the blind magazine. do I just chisel away the metal around the blind mag and the action screw hole and just leave the metal and stuff under the metal?
I am also assuming just chisel away the wood from the front of the blind mag to the recoil lug?
This stock has what looks like factory steel pillars are these ok or should i install new alum ones as long as i am doing this?
The instructions tell me i need to worry about the height of the barrel in the stock so not to remove to much wood? What the? How much is enough and how much is too much i was thinking like 1/8"?
How do i keep the stuff from seeping up around the action and back down into the blind mag? Same with the trigger area just modeling clay or?
And to float the tang it is a nice laminate stock that the barrel was free floated in i am assuming this is case with tang do i just chisel out a lil extra around tang to ensure this?
Sorry for my ignorance i just am kind of particular with my rifle and want it to come out the right way. Thanks again guys for all the help
Don't touch the metal at all. Your factory pillars are fine. Just chisel away/sand some of the wood around them enough to get bedding compound around them and under the tang.
What you are doing is trying to get perfect even contact between the action and the stock/bedding compound.
Anywhere you have bedding compund coming in contact with wood you want to rough things up so the bedding compound makes contact with and bonds to the wood, not just the finish.
Use tape over the magwell and fill the magwell and trigger with clay.