Sbruce, The scope has four dots down and four across and i was on the 2nd one down what if i was zeroed at 300yards and not 200
Even zero'd at 300, drop would still be around 3 mils assuming 2700'/sec.
Maybe look through the scope at a 100 yd target.......make sure there's 3.6" from the center of one dot to the center of the next dot. If there's alot more space then the scope isn't in mils. and needs to be sent back to leupold or you'll need to learn what it really is in.
This is kind of long (sorry), but I have included all the info I hope.
I was out shooting today using a
Savage 10 FCP HS precision
1:10 twist and 24" barrel
Leupold Mark 4 LR/T M1
175 smk B.C. .496
Varget 44.8 gr.
I was shooting at 600 yards, temperature was about 5 degrees w/ no wind. The gun is zeroed at 200 yards. The scope was set at max power (20x).
Noslers reloading guide drop table indicates that the drop for 600 yards at a velocity of 2700 fps should be -82.5.
I set up a target marking the -82.5 drop, however, in order to hit the mark I had to use the 2nd mildot down in order to make the target instead of the 4th mildot.
What should the bullet drop be at that distance based on the information above?
If I'm correct you had an aiming point 82.5" above your expected impact point. Is this true? If you then had to hold an additional 2 Mils above the aiming point to hit the expected impact point. I would expect your velocity is not quite in line with the manual. The environmentals you fired in most likely don't match the manuals corrected environmentals either.
I do not think you were looking up the actual drop table for an Sierra Match King bullet. Pretty sure the drop tables in that manual are for nosler bullets, which can be a bit different.
I would fire up JBM: JBM
And see what it says. Also measure from center of scope body to center of bore line and see how far above center your scope is mounted. Input that measurement into JBM instead of the default 1.5". It makes a difference on drop tables, and it is a very common mistake people make.