ILtoMT50 has the right solution to Ruger bedding issues in post #34.
I used that myself, along with a piloted drill bit of the correct size, that Brownells sells expressly for the purpose of pillar bedding a Ruger. It is not a particularly difficult job to do. I did it successfully and I am not particularly skilled at such things. My advice is to use Acraglas to epoxy the pillar in place. Steelbed the front part of the action around the recoil lug and the first inch or two of the barrel. I would be willing to loan you the piloted bit (if I can find the durned thing).
Action screw torque is not complicated, either. Use the German torque on the front action screw (that's GUDENTIGHT, if you're wondering). Apply purple locktite to the rear action screw and tighten until you feel the screw and action seat. Stop there. DO NOT gorilla torque this screw. Apply purple locktite to the center action screw and turn it all the way in, but do not forcefully torque it down.
The integral recoil lug on a Ruger is no less beefy than that on a Mauser 98 or a Winchester Model 70. All three are superior to the stamped sheet metal lugs sandwiched between the barrel and receiver found on the push feed actions. Likewise the wide, flat bedding surface found on the Mauser, Model 70, and Ruger is superior to that of the round actions.
The term "blueprinting" sounds exotic and mysterious. All that really needs to be done is to square the face of the action, square the bolt face, and lap the lugs. That's it. Not expensive or exotic. This should be done when a new barrel is installed anyway. It's the same thing that should be done on ANY action when it is being re-barreled. "Blueprinting" is a waste of time, money, and effort if you have it done without replacing the factory barrel-- just like on any other rifle. The factory barrel may shoot well or it may not. Factory barrels are a crapshoot-- just like with any other rifle.
The trigger sucks. Replace it. No more expensive than doing so on any other rifle, including the blessed Remington 700.
For normal use, the factory Ruger rings are stout and work just fine. Warne makes very nice ones at a reasonable price. If you need a canted rail for longer range work, have your action drilled and tapped and install one of these:
MurphyPrecision.com - Scope Bases, Rings, and Assorted Shooting Accessories.
Once again, it's no more expensive than the Nightforce tactical rails that uber-tactical guys put on their 700's. It should cost you around $50 to have your receiver drilled and tapped.
I ended up replacing the stock on my Ruger. It didn't need to be replaced. I bought my Ruger expressly to perform a build. I had initially planned to go a certain way with my stock selection, but decided not to. By that time, I had already sold the original stock. so I ended up acquiring a factory laminated stock and putting it on the rifle. That was a failure of planning on my part. I like the stock I have now, though it wasn't necessary.
The biggest downside to the Ruger 77 is that the long action magazines are on the short side, just barely having enough length for factory 30-06 or Win Mag cartridges. The same is true of the commercial Mausers and Winchester Model 70's.
Contrary to what has been said here, it is not necessary to throw money at a Ruger to make it shoot. At least, no more so than any other factory rifle without a barrel nut. My Ruger is chambered for 6.5-284 NORMA and wears a Krieger installed barrel (Krieger has since limited the action types that they will install barrels on) and easily shoots sub 1/2 MOA with handloads. I bedded it myself. The trigger has not been touched, though that is on the list. I plan to put a Picatinny rail on it for reasons of personal preference rather than necessity.
I own a Ruger because I wanted a LH bolt action in a controlled feed design. That is a narrow field of choices. I have since quit buying LH actions and have decided that life is better just living with a RH bolt. From what I have seen, Rugers currently run very close in price to new production Winchester Model 70's. Given that choice, I prefer the Model 70. As long as the Model 70 remains in production, I will probably not buy another new Ruger 77.
However, if one already has a Ruger, there is no real reason not to build on it. The Ruger is different from other designs and those differences must be taken into account, but are by no means true obstacles to anyone who does their homework. The supposed problems of the design are myths and misunderstandings. The only real disadvantage is to parts changers who call themselves gunsmiths.