I build Action wrenches, Barrel Vises, and Various dies in my shop. In the latest batch of wrenches, I had a fella request a Torque style wrench, but he didn't want the standard hex on the rear of the wrench. What he wanted was a 1/2" socket to fit his 1/2" drive torque wrench... Great Idea I thought, so I made it for him... Here are the pics...
You might want to get in contact with Len Backus.
I believe buisnesses are required to become a sponsor before advertising on this site.
Your thread will get edited with a msg to contact him in regards to the site rules.
Just a heads up!
Your wrench video on youtube is why your user name seems familiar, i remembered.
I'm looking for a breech plug wrench for a Thompson Center Hawkin. Do ya got one of those layin' around? They're an odd shape.
I have a great woman, fantastic kids, a warm place to sleep and an accurate rifle. Life is good ..............
Hunter Safety Instructor - California Hunter Safety Meritorious Service 1971 - 1972. Rifle/Pistol Marksmanship Instructor - NRA Life Member
American rifleman's triad - God, guts and guns. It built America and it'll preserve America. Abandon one and you lose them all.
As iron sharpens iron, so one man sharpens another.
Bishop, I came to this site looking for info on some calibers I am planning on making dies for. Had I come here to advertise I would have put a bunch of contact info under my posts like I do on other sites. I have found some of the info which helped me, and today I was shooting pictures from the latest batch of Wrenches that I built. Knowing that for some reason... High-power shooters and Long range shooters like torque style wrenches, [while point blank benchrest shooters (with the most accurate guns in the world) know that a T handle wrench is good enough] would appreciate pics of a new design type of action wrench, through finding info on the very same site that I found my useful info.
The reason the best wrenches in the world only contact the action close to the front where the tennon of the barrel is, is so that any forces applied to the action, are only applied at the front. This keep you from putting the whole action in a twist while removing the barrel. You only want the torquing forces applied up where the threads are. The flat bar like the Davidson that has a hex on the back reminds me of something my Dad's Dad used to say. "Nothing is completely useless.... It can always be a perfect bad example".