I took a closer look at Sendero and don't see the rivit thingy that retiredcpo mentions. So, mine doesn't have one or it's completely flush unlike the ejector pin which is spring loaded.
However, the extractor is sharp and, does shave tiny flakes off the brass from my cases. I never noticed it before as being the cause. I just brush the bolt face as part of my cleaning process.
If it's off quite a bit, it could be damaging your brass and may need to be filed a tiny bit. But, it's likely not the cause of not being able to get to sub-MOA.
Remove the bolt and make sure you can slip a fired case into the bolt face. If it doesn't make it over the lip then you probably need to see a smith or return it to Remington.
As far as losing a little brass from the case head goes, I frequently notch my case heads anyway with a file to index them so as to align the thick wall of the brass with the bolt lug at 12 o'clock. I don't know if it really helps. But, it doesn't hurt anything.
Perhaps someone else can address the brass shavings on the bolt face...
Don't worry about the shavings, they are just a minor problem with the extractor clip.
I would be more worried about the accuracy of that rifle. I had a Remington 7mmRM last year and it had a faulty chamber.
The chamber was that badly cut that I could not extract factory loads after firing. The problem was with a deep bur in the chamber.
The smith that rebarreled it for me said that Remington had a bad batch of 7mmRM chambers cut.
Inspect the bolt face
my buddies remington was doing the same thing on the lip near the extractor
is a rivit looking thing it should be flush his was not and was scaring up the brass and interfering with ejection shells
It had to be fixed my remington but now it shoots great
I think that part on mine is ok. It may be something with the extractor itself. The shells eject fine though so I'm not sure whats going on. I'm going to shoot it some more and if nothing changes for the better I think I will send it to a gunsmith see what they think and have the action blueprinted at the same time. I want to get it straightened out soon though because I don't want my gun at the smith when the weather warms up. Thanks for the advice by the way.
Have you full length sized your brass at any time? I didn't see that mentioned in any of the above threads. A FL resized case should easily chamber after this with no shavings apparent. A "brass ring" on the bolt face is normal, but brass shavings is not.
The Remington factory extractor is riveted in place. The rivet is ground off to be flush and should not snag on anything. I had mine of my first Sendero break (after years of faithful service) and had it replaced with the Sako style and they work great also.
What weight bullets are you trying? I tried the 168gn Bergers in my 700P and they never would shoot but it loved the 150gn Ballistic Tip. Shoots those in to one hole with IMR4350 and IMR4831. JohnnyK.
I would think that if the bolt face/extractor ex. is not quite as true , that it may bind it up just enough as to impart torque on the case and therefor cause accuracy issues. I had very tiny brass shavings on a brand new 700 that before I fired it, I had ran a couple of rounds through it to check out the cycling. Now , I can expect some of that, but how much are we talking, a considerable amount? There may be some abrasive burrs on the bolt face. Probably need smoothing. Another thing, check your lugs on the bolt, check to see if the wear marks on both lugs are even and run all the way length wise across the lugs, if you only have one lug with a wear mark and little or no wear marks on the other, you may need it trued by a smith. Just my thoughts. Good luck.
Has anything been done to rifle to help accurize it. There could be several things working against you. The crown could be cut out out of alignment from the bore. Not to uncommon to see from the factory. There could also be scratch of ding in the crown effecting accuracy. If the action is not stress free bedded and the barrel 100% free floated it should be for best accuracy potential. Are the bolt lugs lapped? Are the scope bases stress free and loc-tited in place. Are the scope rings lapped and the scope sitting stress free with the reticle aligned? It sounds like you have a good grasp on reloading so to me it sounds like the rifle just needs a good tweaking to make it work a little better towards its potential. As far as the brass shaving in the bot face I see this alot with factory Remington extractors. There are a couple of things that cause this. The factory extractor groove may not be cut deep enough for the extractor to properly expand in far enough to snap over the rim of the case. If it bottom out the brass is softer than the extractor and it will just tear a groove in the rim. The factory extractor is a pretty stiff, add along a sharp edge and brass shavings is what you get. Your probably noticing when you push the bolt forward you have to give it a little extra uugghh to snap the extractor over the rim of the case. It's not a accuracy deal breaker other than it's a pain in the ass. A sako extractor has a more positive extraction and you won't have to grunt to snap the sako extractor over the rim, you probably won't even feel it snap over. I'd be glad to talk with you about accurizing your rifle and a sako extractor, if your interested feel free to give me a call, my numbers on my website.
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Just to start off, I'm going to say "Don't take this wrong.... I'm not knocking your rifle"!!
I think from what you have tried with your handloads that it might be time look elsewhere. I know many people have had better results with a factory sendero, but 1 moa is pretty good for most factory rifles, including a sendero. It might be time to send the rifle to Kevin Cram, who posted the previous reply or another smith and have them check the rifle out for anything simple that they could take care of without the full blown treatment, of truing the receiver, and new barrel. Regardless of how good you handload, expecting to pull a factory rifle out of the box and have it shoot under 1 moa is a tall order in my experience.
A couple of quick questions.... Have you bedded the stock? I have a 300 RUM sendero that I picked up several years ago that did not shoot very well. I bedded the stock and used the tubb final finish bore lapping process on it. (first and only time I have used the fire bore lapping process) I don't know if the lapping helped or if it was just the fact you fire 50 rounds which may have finished breaking in the barrel. After the lapping and bedding the rifle will shoot 1 moa maybe a little under. I am not recommending or knocking the Tubb fire lapping...... don't really know if it works or not. On that rifle I just figured I had nothing to lose as my next step was to have a new barrel installed (which I still need to do..... she is just a just a gun safe queen that never get used right now).
Back on your handloading..... Do you measure runout with your loads, what are you seeing if you are?? Are you loading to fit the magazine?