thanks for the video. I do appreciate your concern, but I am a retired tool & die journeyman, ran cnc equipment such as the lathe in the video, along with verticle & horizontal mills, boring mills, surface grinders, tub grinders, blah, blah, blah, I will be fine with centering the die on the barrel. Also, it would be interesting to survey gunsmiths around the country to see what method's they use to thread the barrel for a brake install, I know there are many ways to insure starting a die straight, and can't believe the majority of them are using a 75k-150k lathe.
Jamminjames: unless you are a very experienced machinist with the very best in lathes, etc., definitely do not try to install a brake yourself. They need to be aligned absolutely perfectly or disaster is the certain result. And, even if you manage to get the brake on straight enough to allow the bullet to pass through without contacting the brake, that is not the only issue at stake here. With any brake other than the Vais, the gas ports need to be directionally perfect to make the brake work properly. Vents slightly out of perpendicular to the bore will allow gases to escape at odd directions resulting in the end of the barrel going somewhere other than straight when the rifle is fired, and you could never get them properly placed with the "eyeball" technique. All of the good brakes run about $200 installed. It is best to just write the check.
I beleive this is as shooter-specific a question as ever.
One shooter might be disturbed from the recoil of a .30-06, whereas another shooter may shoot his .375 H&H all day long and never flinch.
Me, personally, I prefer to brake all rifles .300 Win/Wby/WSM or larger. I have 2 .300 Win Mags; one is a custom long range rifle that started life as a Win M70 Laredo, and because of its weight, is quite pleasant to shoot, although she still thumps ya when shooting prone. I have a brake on it, but truly it isnt necessary as it feels like shooting a really loud .243 Win with the brake on. The reason I installed the brake on it was because I wanted the surefire suppressor mount- even though Ill probably never get the cash to get one.
My other .300 is my lighter-weight medium-long range "mountain" rifle, which I use for hunting whejever Im in steep or difficult terrain. I built it using a 700 action, fluted bolt, 24.5" fluted SS Remington barrel, pillar and glass bedded Bell&Carlson stck (much lighter than my other rifle's stock which has a full length alloy bedding block), aluminum scope rings and mount; this rifle only weighs 8 pounds with it's Nikon Monarch 4-16x42 1" scope... it definitely smacks you good when shooting prone, but bench and offhand is fine. When I built this rifle, I was out zeroing and breaking it in - I was used to scopes with more eye relief than the Nikon, so I got scope kissed pretty good - I decided then that this girl is gonna get a brake lol.
I also like to brake all my auto rifles - for fast follow ups; nothing to do with recoil/flinch.
Its better to be safe than sorry; once you develop flinchitis, it's a pain in the butt to get over... I have trained several shooters who buy the latest and greatest uber-mag, and then have to re-learn the fundamentals of markamanship because they are scared of the recoil.
Sorry for all the typos, Im using my phone for this.
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