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MOA vs. inches question

 
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  #8  
Old 12-06-2004, 08:31 PM
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Re: MOA vs. inches question

Sorry double post.

[ 12-06-2004: Message edited by: Beluebow ]
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  #9  
Old 12-06-2004, 08:58 PM
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Re: MOA vs. inches question

I don't think that 47 clicks is correct. Use the MOA value as previously stated. If your dial on your scope is 0 when you are zeroed at your desired range, and the chart says come up 9 MOA, dial your scope up to 9. I use MOA charts and they are easier and quicker. Don't worry about how many inches of drop etc... you have if you have your come ups in MOA. My 2.
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  #10  
Old 12-06-2004, 10:52 PM
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Re: MOA vs. inches question

Beluebow,

If your drop chart does not read in moa I will email one to you. Ultimately you will have to go to the range to confirm the drops by shooting at those given distances. The only thing you need to worry about initially is what setting you need to hit at a certain distance. The caliberations on your Zeiss are 1/4 MOA. Take your drop chart in MOA and your rifle to the range.Zero at your given zero distance used on your chart(100 yards for example). Now that you have done that, set a target at 300 if you can. Dial in the MOA adjustment on drop sheet for 300 yards and shoot. If your chart says that you needed 3.00 MOA up at 300 yards and you needed 3.50 MOA up to be on target make note of this. Now repeat the process at 500 yards and any other distance you want to be able to shoot at. If your chart is off you may need to make a whole new one with the correct info you got from the range shooting. The drop chart is just a guide, you have to shoot the distances. The numbers you got from the program clicks/moa/inches obviously don't mesh together. Go by the MOA and test it out. Any number of things can be out of wack between your rifle system and your chart. I once had a scope that was a standard 1/4 moa knob scope and it turned out that the clicks would actually move the point of impact about .35 MOA and made the rifle seem to shoot very flat. Hope that helps.

Shawn
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  #11  
Old 12-09-2004, 10:24 PM
 
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Re: MOA vs. inches question

Beluebow

You've been given some good data here....but since you're new...it's somewhat "kornfusing" I'd say! So...as they say in the US Army...."Let's do it by the numbers!"

I don't work with Zeiss scopes much; if it were a Leupold with target knobs...it would be more simple probably. So here's what I do:

I have a Leupold 3.5x14x50MM w/target knobs and each click is worth 1/4 MOA. I zero ALL MY RIFLES at 200 yds. This is my FOUNDATION ZERO! The tgt knobs have 3 Allen screws which can be loosened so as to be able to rotate the "barrel" and once I'm zeroed at 200 I loosen the 3 Allen screws and move the barrel (which is scribed with numbers and index marks in MOA and those inbetween are movements of 1/4 MOA) to "0". I then go to each yard line and zero and I write down the zeros for each yardline. You must have a FOUNDATION ZERO first off which to work from! With your 300 Win Mag shooting the Accubonds of 180 grs. you should need somewhere in the neighborhood of and additional 8 clicks or 2 MOA movement to be on at 300 yds. Basically...what I do, if I estimate the distance to a whitetail to be 300 yds. I just put the horizontal wire at or near the top of the back and I'll have a dead buck as that bullet will drop somewhere between 5-7" at 300 yds.

Drop charts are fine....but "THEY AIN'T UTOPHIA" because of varying degrees of barrel harmonics involved. One barrel may exit the bullet on a down node and another the up node of vibration. So it's highly necessary to shoot a rifle and then record your ACTUAL CHANGES/ZEROS for it. Ballistic charts ARE NOT FINITE...in my opinion!

Wish you luck....and MERRY CHRISTMAS!!
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