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Making my rifles accurate

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Unread 05-11-2008, 07:41 AM
Bronze Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 40
Making my rifles accurate

I got 2 new rifles the other day and I would like to improve accuraccy on both.

One is a .243 Sako85 Stainless Laminate and the other is a .300wsm Tikka T3 Lite in a Tikka T3 Varmint stock, so the barrel is extremely floated.

They both shoot extremely well, especially the Sako, but the .300wsm T3 I plan on using for longrange 500+ yards, so I need/want this to be extremely accurate.

What can I do to ensure this, like bedding? Float? etc... If its hard, I dont mind on getting a gunsmith to work on it for me, money isnt really a issue but I dont really want to spend heaps for unnecessary mods.

Thanks for your help guys.

P.S-Does anyone use or know anyone who uses a T3 for long range hunting?
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Unread 05-11-2008, 09:47 AM
Platinum Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: MN
Posts: 1,219
I have a T3 lite stainless synthetic 300 WSM that I plan on taking deer at longer ranges. It will shoot inside 1.5 at 200 all the time and most of the time it will group in the .5 moa mark. I'm pretty impressed w/ the tikka. I didn't do any major changes to it. Adjusted the trigger to the lightest setting, replaced the recoil pad w/ a limbsaver and added a raised cheek peace to the stock. Last weekend I was able to shoot a 4.5 inch vertical spread and a 7.5 inch horazontal spread at 600 yards and 13 mile per hour winds w/ 8 rds.

It isn't the most accurate rifle out there, but I'm pretty excited about it.
I used to re-load but now I "hand-load".
-- Well, at least I try --
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Unread 05-12-2008, 03:34 PM
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Danville, PA
Posts: 1,129
Start by having a stress free bedding done, making sure that the barrel is 100% free floated with good clearance especially if using a bi-pod. Have the trigger adjusted down to what you feel is a adequate and safe. Have the muzzle re-crowned to ensure a good, proper, true crown. Have the lugs lapped for 100% contact. Have the bores scoped for any unseen problems. When all is done, break the barrel in properly. 1 shot clean, making sure every bit of copper is removed, if it isn't, clean again. In the beginning it's not uncommon to clean several times between each shot. Then one shot clean again. When you can shoot one shot and be absolutely sure that all the copper was removed from one cleaning move onto 2 shots and clean. When you can be absolutely sure that all the copper is removed again in one cleaning move onto 3 shots and clean. When you can be absolutley sure that all the copper is removed in one cleaning, step up to a 5 shot string. Clean again. Shoot another 5 shot string. Your barrel should be broke in and cleaning should be reasonable by now. It's a long tedious process but well worth it for the end results you'll see on paper and the ease in cleaning later. If you need any help with anything shoot me an e-mail at kevin@mcrifles.com PM me here or just ask on a post, we're all here to help. Good luck.

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Unread 05-13-2008, 07:11 AM
Bronze Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 40
Thanks for your help! Yeah, ive been cleaning after each shot very thoroughly.

Can I wear my barrel out prematurely from too much cleaning?
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Unread 05-13-2008, 01:11 PM
Silver Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 308
Can I wear my barrel out prematurely from too much cleaning?[/quote]

Take a brass brush and rub it on a piece of steel that is equivalent to the steel of your barrel and tell me if you can even make a mark. Brass and nylon is much softer than the steel used for barrels and this is why its used. A bore guide is a good idea though.

For long range its all about getting a load that is consistent. You need a load that is accurate and has a low extreme spread. If one shot is 25 feet per second faster than the next you are going to have a vertical spread on your shots at longer distances.
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