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You stated in a previous post about getting a heavy barrelled rifle. Is the heavy barrel necessary?
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A heavy bbl has many benefits toward long range shooting. First you must remember that accuracy and precision (which are NOT the same thing) are dependant on consistancy. In order to send a bullet on the same path every thing must be the same. In order to predict this path every thing must be the same. That being said, a heavy bbl warms more slowly. This means that your shots travel down a bbl that is a more consistant temp. The stresses in the bbl that cause it to change shape appear more slowly and therefore each subsequent shot taken is affected only a small amount. A thin wall bbl heats quickly and the stresses in the steel wil cause a more rapid warping and bending in the shape of the bbl. You will notice this by shooting at a target 5 or 10 times in a row with your shots a few (10-20)seconds apart. The holes in the target will normaly rise from the point of aim, up and to the right. With a thick walled bbl this happens more slowly. The bullet holes will be closer together. They may not even "string" at all over a 10 shot group.
Another benefit to a heavy bbl is the reduction of bbl "whip". Picture a long balloon hanging empty from your mouth. As you begin to blow air into the balloon it begins to rise from your mouth outward. A gun bbl will do the same thing as the bullet is pushed outward by very high pressures. It actually hangs in an arc (if it is freefloated) and as the bullet moves it stiffens and the muzzle whips upward. As the bullet is leaving the bbl the tail of the bullet receives an upward kick. However there is a law of gyroscopic physics that causes the upward kick to result in a sideways spin of the bullet. The more the bullet is disrupted upon its launch the harder it is for the bullet to restabilize in flight. The bigger the disruption the les consistant the flight.
A heavy bbl whips less and heats slower and dampens shooter movement but is it necessary? I will leave that for you to decide based on the type of shooting you will be doing and the distances you are trying to reach. There are more than a few match grade thin bbls on some very nice rifles that are designed to be more portable than the heavy guns but still put that first cold bbl shot in the same place every time.
A lot of words, hope they helped.
GRAVITY. It's not just a good idea. It's the LAW!
Just curious, do some manufactures put heavier stock barrels on their rifles than others? I know I don't want a heavy bull barrel, they are classed by #2 #3, ect??
I have heard that Remington puts a semi heavy barrel on their rifles, a #2? What to you think of the stock barrel on the CDL, or BDL? Is remington getting away with the bare min, or did they try to give their customer's a good stock barrel?
You are welcome. I hope I was clear. I type slowly enough that I sometimes get lazy and try to condense explanations that simply require alot of words.
Normaly a gun manufacturer will put on the "optimum" weight bbl for the market they are trying to hit. A customer looking for a light weight rifle does not want a heavy bbl whereas a customer looking for a varmint gun wants a bbl that he feels is rigid enough for his needs but the company would be foolish to make the bbl any thicker than they need to meet the needs of MOST customers wanting this option. A minimum thickness is always there for safety reasons.
The actual quality of barrels can vary with the maker and even the process the maker uses to produce their barrels. Right now you almost cant go wrong with any remington or savage rifle that has the features you preffer. They are making some fine bbls (both thick and thin)and putting them on regular over the counter guns.
If you want to know more about the different tapers available I would suggest you look at the web sites for companies like Shillen, Lilja, Pac-Nor, Douglas, Bullberry and others. There you will find their taper dimensions and mixed in between the numbered styles you will find the dimensions for others like "remington light varmint".
GRAVITY. It's not just a good idea. It's the LAW!
Greenhorn, in 1996 I had my first custom rifle built, Its a Bansner UR-1 in 7mmstw, I shot the rifle enough to know the trajectory. I have taken deer at 408,403,487, and 506 yds. I know with my sight in of 2.2" high at 100 that it is a fuzz over 19" low at 500. Now I put the crosshairs 8" over a deers back and if I dope the wind right, they just seem to magicly fall over. 2 years ago I had premier install target knobs on my 6.5x20 loopy. I'm not fond of checking the range, checking the charts, dialing in then trying the shot, So I'm thinking I need a new LR rig.
I have to chime in on this one. Until last year I had never owned a hi power rifle with a scope. I saw a sniper show on the discovery channel, read Marine Sniper and decided that I had to get into long range shooting. My first rifle was a Rem vs 308 with a Leupold 3.5 - 10 M3 LR scope. That's a great scope for guys getting into long range hunting and wanting something that is easy to work and gives you repeatable results. Anyway, I couldn't hit the target the first time out to the range with it. I had to have someone else sight it in because I was such a flincher.
With about 600 rounds under my belt, I was hitting bowling pins at 500 Meters. That's with a 10 power. I don't flinch any more either. I've convinced myself that I'm a recoil junkie. I have a 300WM with a Leupold M1 4.5 - 14 and it's a bit easier to make that shot, but not much, (that's a great size of scope for hunting by the way).
All of my friends that I hunt with do everything they can to get closer to the animal, I like to be as far away as possible. Nothing is better than a well executed long shot.
Practice makes perfect and practice is so fun. Good luck!