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"Can I ask why you want to know? Do you have an apprehension to using the scope adjustments in the field?"
Well, I guess it is just a confidence thing. I haven't done as much hunting as people on this board, and sometimes (from what little experience I have)trying to imagine putting a lazer on an animal, checking a drop chart, and then turing and turing a dial to get dialed in. Seems like all of that could take sixty seconds or more, and places I have hunted it doesn't seem that I have had that much time before taking a shot. Friends of mine who hunt a lot more than I do have alwyas recomended a scope that is 2X to 3X on the low end, and they hunt set to that low setting feeling that if they jump a buck they have more of a chance to find him in the glass. I'm trying to figure out how many here grab a good vantage, set up and wait, and how many stalk.
So I guess that train of thought, as well the cost of the fancy scopes kind of sent me in the direction of a 3X9 or 4X10.
I mean it makes sence that this would be the way to go, but I can also see where these would be great for the benchrest, I wonder how useful for the guy walking around in the mountains.
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You are correct that while walking in the area to be hunted you would crank the power all the way down for fast aquisition of an impromptu shot.IMO
However, as someone stated before there is close hunting and there is long hunting. When you are sitting on a hilside or the high side of an open expanse and shooting animals that are going about their normal affairs you have a good deal of time (relatively speaking) to make a set up. When you find the area you want to watch for animals you could do an initial scan with your range finder and get an idea of the distances you are dealing with. Once you have done that you may set up the rifle and get a good resting position (both you and the
for more concentrated glassing. If in fact you do see a target you would get a range, look at your drop chart (taped to the stock in a convenient location) and then put in your elevation. Look at wind indicators both near and far and then dial for your estimate. Some people even take a "sighter shot" at a rock or other suitable target at the same distance as the animal but directed to a different area to confirm the adjustments. Then back to the animal. Breathe, squeeze and Whack
. Look for the hit (or the miss) and ready your self for the next shot. If the animal falls then you are done. If you hit dirt then adjust and shoot again.
If you are confident at the range you will be shooting (read that as : If you have had a satisfactory number of first shot hits on "kill zone" sized targets at the the range you will be shooting under similar conditions) then you can dispose of the sighter shot and fire for effect.
The time it takes to crank in your dials is quite short compared with the time you spend watching for meat to wander into view.
As for the cost you should be able to get an 800 yard deer gun up and running for less than a grand, easily. I have a Rem 700 VLS .308 and a Leupopld 4.5x14x40 ad that ran about 900 bucks. I have spent more than that, maybe a total of $1300 (including the gun and scope) to get it the way I want it but if you get a heavy bbl savage and a decent scope you can shoot 500 yards with it tomorrow for a very decent price.
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Am I wrong to think that those scopes with the adjustments on the sides are as expensive, and as fragil as they look? By the way, what it the technical name for the style of scope that has the big external adjustment knobs?
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They are as expensive as any other scope of comparable quality. They are generaly used as a tactical scope so they are often times very rugged. (leupold gold ring scopes have a lifetime warrantee that goes with the scope regardless of whether you are the original owner or not.)
You would ask for a scope with "Target knobs" or "Target turrets". I have also heard them called " Tactical adjustments".