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Longrange reality check

 
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  #8  
Old 12-29-2004, 07:28 AM
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Longrange reality check

GH,

Well at least you asked before just winging lead at far of targets...

Most guys have this fantasy of shooting way out there at intended targets and have no idea just how far .." far " is...

to shoot at longer ranges takes alot of dedication and practice.. just not as easy as buying a magnum and "holding over"

I have a standard 10X on my 308 and I have a self imposed limit of 700-800 yards with it... I know at 500 yards I can routinly hit a 10" steel plate...
I have shosen this 10X scope after using such others as 3.5-15 , 6-20, 8.5-25... the 10X is just a good all around scope for 800 yards or less in my opinion...

the other scpe of choice would be the 3.5-15 but you have to remember to keep your parallex correct...

I do have som concern about you .. just holding over... unless you have a scope with hold overs on your reticle .. why would you want to take the chance?

both Nightforce and USO have excellent reticles for known distances.

My advice is to practice an learn you rifle and load.. then determine just how far you can hunt...

there is no satisfaction in wounding an animal...
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  #9  
Old 12-29-2004, 08:37 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Jackson MI
Posts: 247
Re: Longrange reality check

Greenhorn,
If your past experience is anything like mine was, it is understandable to be learry of adjusting your scope. I remember spending most of the day and a lot of ammo trying to get my scope re-zeroed after trying to make an adjustment. As I learned more about scopes and how they should be mounted and used, the process is second nature and done without thought.

I found out the hard way that my scope was never mounted plumb. The vertical cross hair wasn't. Every time I adjusted up, my point of impact moved to the right. Very frustrating. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img] I also learned that my 1/4 MOA clicks were closer to 1/3 MOA. Also somewhat confusing. Then I found that there was backlash in the adjusting threads and the I needed to shoot several times to get the group to settle into it's new position. There was no way I was going to try adjusting a scope in the field.

But taking a leap of faith I replaced my old Weaver with a new scope (Some don't think a Tasco counts as a scope, but I haven't had any problems yet). I got some help mounting it properly. I tested it to find if it had any backlash. I shot a group and adjusted it up 4 MOA and my next group was about 4" higher! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img]

Now I have every confidence in my gear and have no worries about adjusting for elevation and windage. It's funny how a little experience in a new area really changes your thinking about something. Listen well to the folks around here, there is a lot to learn.
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  #10  
Old 12-29-2004, 10:54 AM
Silver Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 419
Re: Longrange reality check

[ QUOTE ]
When you ranged that elk at 1100, was it hard to hole the square on the elk, did you have it braced in some manner?

[/ QUOTE ]

I was braced against a solid object (my truck), so it was firly easy to hold the square on the elk. If I wasn't at my truck, I would have found a stump or improvised a steady rest.

Holding over would be fine if you have a scope reticle that supports it and you have practiced with it enough to be confident. I am not sure how well this would work if you had a target that was at an "in between" yardage, say 450 yards - not at the 400 yard hold over, and not at the 500 yard holdover. Maybe some others could chime in on how the "in between" yardages work on a holdover type of reticle.
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  #11  
Old 12-29-2004, 03:03 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Michigan-USA
Posts: 75
Re: Longrange reality check

I am not a long range guru, but I have a 4.5-14 Burris FFII with the Ballistic Plex on my .300 Win mag and love it. If you are shooting out to 500 +/- yards, it can be a big help. Just my 2 cents.
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  #12  
Old 12-29-2004, 08:12 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: CA
Posts: 63
Re: Longrange reality check

wapiti13...
"If you get a good 3X9 or 3.5X10 power scope with a long range stadia built in "

"unless you have a scope with hold overs on your reticle"

Are you both talking about scopes that have the Boone & Crockett or mill dot retical?

4ked Horn...
"Can I ask why you want to know? Do you have an apprehension to using the scope adjustments in the field?"

Well, I guess it is just a confidence thing. I haven't done as much hunting as people on this board, and sometimes (from what little experience I have)trying to imagine putting a lazer on an animal, checking a drop chart, and then turing and turing a dial to get dialed in. Seems like all of that could take sixty seconds or more, and places I have hunted it doesn't seem that I have had that much time before taking a shot. Friends of mine who hunt a lot more than I do have alwyas recomended a scope that is 2X to 3X on the low end, and they hunt set to that low setting feeling that if they jump a buck they have more of a chance to find him in the glass. I'm trying to figure out how many here grab a good vantage, set up and wait, and how many stalk.

So I guess that train of thought, as well the cost of the fancy scopes kind of sent me in the direction of a 3X9 or 4X10.

Am I wrong to think that those scopes with the adjustments on the sides are as expensive, and as fragil as they look? By the way, what it the technical name for the style of scope that has the big external adjustment knobs?

I mean it makes sence that this would be the way to go, but I can also see where these would be great for the benchrest, I wonder how useful for the guy walking around in the mountains.

RickHorst..
"I have chosen this 10X scope after using such others as 3.5-15 , 6-20, 8.5-25... the 10X is just a good all around scope for 800 yards or less in my opinion..."

So you have opted to hold over your target rather than use a 3.5X15 that you would dial up your range. Can I ask why you came to that choice? You don't feel like you are giving up accuracy by holding over instead of dialing in.

On these scopes, I assume you can set your zero to your 200 yd sight-in, and then adjust up from there. How hard is this to do. If these are 1\4" MOA adjustment, do you actually have to count 4 clicks per MOA, or are the dials set for fast adjustments?

Thanks for fielding all these rookie questions. Right now the only rifle I own is grandpappy's old Savage 99, but plan to buy (probablly) a Remington 700 soon. Just want to make sure I set it up right for my needs.
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  #13  
Old 12-29-2004, 10:18 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: north idaho
Posts: 5
Re: Longrange reality check

Greenhorn,

Use the savage 99 for walking and hunting in the woods. Now do yourself a favor and get either a Remington PSS or Savage tactical/varmint in the 308 winchester cal. This is cheap to shoot. Very accurate. Recoil is almost noticable, barely. Remember that much reasearch and development has gone into the 308 round, and components for shooting and reloading it are legion. Its a great place to start.

After the rifle purchase I would suggest getting an optical sight like Nightforce's NP-R2 reticle. I have been using mil-dots, but I like the concept of this sight better.

Remember that what this is happens to be a shooting system, and not just a rifle and scope. Learn to use this system with a great rangefinder and you will be amazed just how fast and far you can shoot with astounding result.

It doesn't take long, and with a little equipment you'll be shooting better than you've ever dreamed possible. It's willingness to learn. Proper attitude. And investment in time and a little equipment.

This is how I started with a PSS. Then I went to a Remington 280 in a 40x single shot. Now I'm into big boomer territory. But still I enjoy the PSS 308 more than all of them. Best bang for the buck.
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  #14  
Old 12-30-2004, 12:46 AM
Silver Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 419
Re: Longrange reality check

[ QUOTE ]
trying to imagine putting a lazer on an animal, checking a drop chart, and then turing and turing a dial to get dialed in. Seems like all of that could take sixty seconds or more, and places I have hunted it doesn't seem that I have had that much time before taking a shot.

[/ QUOTE ]

The answer in this case will be a little vague since not all scenarios are the same and animals will react differently given how much pressure they have seen. I have seen mule deer that see you a mile away, and they run a couple of ridges farther away. I have also seen deer (mule deer and whitetail) that will stand there at 50 yards and stare at you.
Usually the farther away they are, the less they will react to your presence.


To help Greenhorn out here, how long does everyone think it takes, from the time you spot the deer, to range it, look at your drop chart, dial in the elevation, judge the wind and dial it in, then to set yourself for the shot, then the shot itself? I think the time may vary with the distance, so let's designate a range - 500 yards.

I would think that with practice, 30 seconds would be about how long it would take me...I'm sure many of you all could do it much faster [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]
This would be while I am hunting the open sagebrush country of southern Idaho. If I was up in north Idaho in the brush, it would take longer because trying to find a place to shoot from without brush in the way is somewhat a PITA.

What kind of terrain are you hunting Greenhorn?
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