1 Have a set of V blocks made and put the scope in them, then get a point of aim about 20 feet away and then spin the scope and adjust till the cross hair stays on the point of aim while the scope is turned all the way around
2 count the clicks then divide by 2 and put that many clicks in. In this way is there the same amount of clicks up/dwn as the windage clicks. I jsut recv. a scope for xmas and the manuel doesnt say how many total clicks are in the scope
Just count the clicks between the ends of travel for both turrets and divide by 2. That will get you in the middle of the scopes adjustment. If it's a quality scope the reticle will appear to be centered typically even if you aren't centered in the turrets travel.
No real need to get too technical and picky with the centering as you will just move it when you bore sight and adjust at the range when shooting later on.
I just hold a mirror against the objective and look through it, you'll see the reticle and a reflection of it, yurn the knobs until the reflection is lined up with the reticle. This is courtesy of leupolds website.
RR
I go with the guys suggesting optical methods and I personally use a bore sighter to find center. Counting clicks is not always reliable, because many scopes continue to click after the reticle has stopped moving. My 6.5-20x Vari-X III FFP does this and it is quite common.
What I was wanting to do is center the reticle BEFORE mounting the scope.Then use the windage screws on my rings to boresight it.Then go to the range and fine tune it with the scope adjustment. I counted clicks then divided that number in half, Came out pretty close,only had to use the windage on the scope rings very little. Now I feel pretty sure that I have full travel in the up/dwn adjustment
My question is why you would want much down adjustment.
I can understand some, but unless you zero at 1000 yards, (does anyone do that?) why would you want more than, say, 15% of your adjustment in the down direction?
Bill
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My question is why you would want much down adjustment.
I can understand some, but unless you zero at 1000 yards, (does anyone do that?) why would you want more than, say, 15% of your adjustment in the down direction?
Bill
Bill, I'm thinking he actually means full travel with his "elevation" adjustment, not necessarily up AND down.
You probably know that with the wind at mechanical center, he has capability to dial as far (up) as the scope elevation would go under ideal conditions. If the wind is subtantantially off center, it will limit elevation travel.
Linear Mode
