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Building a long range elk rifle

 
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  #1  
Old 10-08-2007, 01:27 PM
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Building a long range elk rifle

I'm building a long range elk rifle this year and I have a Sako M995 30-378 rifle that I would like to use. I will be using this rifle to shoot between 500-1000 yards. I would like suggestions on stock and barrel set ups and anything else that should be done. Thanks in advance.
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Old 10-08-2007, 04:28 PM
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How does that baby shoot? If it shoots good with high BC bullets, I would just put a muzzle brake on it 'cause I'm sure that sucker packs a good punch on both ends. If it kicks the crap out of you then more then likely (and I'm not calling you a wimp) you will either flinch or won't want to shoot it enough to be consistant at those ranges. Lots of good practice is needed for looooong shots. I would also look into hand loading. You will get a better selection of bullets over factory Weatherby rounds and you will save a fortune. My buddy had a 300 Weatherby and paid something like $80 for a box of 20. I told him I would load for him if he bought the dies and what not. It would pay for itself the first time around. He decided it was more rifle then he needed....in other words it kicked the living sh#t out of him and he sold it to buy a 25-06.
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Old 10-08-2007, 04:54 PM
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The recoil isn't too much of an issue, although it would be nice to reduce it. I get spoiled shooting my dad's accumark in the same caliber. So far my goups at 100 yards are around 0.75"-1.0". I'm using 180gr Barnes MRX Bullets with 112.5gr of Retumbo powder and federal 215 primers. I shoot consistently at 550 yards, which is the maximum range at the shooting club. My issue with the barrel is no brake or flutes. Heats up way too fast and starts flinging bullets. I have to shoot once let cool and then shoot again. I would at least like to shoot three consitent shots before cooling.
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  #4  
Old 10-08-2007, 05:24 PM
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Elk Rifle

I would go with a 338/378 because it will fit your action
with out any alterations.

If you want to keep the stock go with the largest barrel
you can with out removing to much stock and a muzzel
break because there will be a lot of recoil.

I dont use muzzle breaks ,instead I like heaver barrels like
#7,s or #8,s but 30" is about as long as you can use with
out being muzzel heavy.

Heavy barrels do a good job of reducing recoil .

Example!! A 30/378 shooting 200 gr bullets@ 3200 ft/sec
8.5 lb rifle produces 52.0 ft/lbs of recoil and 19.8 ft/sec recoil vel.
12.5 lb rifle is 35.4 ft/lbs of recoil and 13.5 ft/sec recoil velocity.
A break will bring it down to about the same level but you have to
contend with the noise.

As far as stocks I realy like laminates, they add a little weight
but most is in the butt stock helping the balance of heavy/long
barrel rifle.

If the 338/378 is a little to much then the 30/378 is a good choice
with the same barrel and stock combo.

J E CUSTOM
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  #5  
Old 10-08-2007, 09:31 PM
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Does anyone know much about the Sako M995. Is this the same as the TRG-S? I can't seem to find much aftermarket info about this model.
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  #6  
Old 10-09-2007, 09:05 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Colorado
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Yes, I beleive it is the same model the TRG-S as noted on the rifle as M995. I have this rifle in the .338 LM (lapua magnum).
You can find some information pertaining to this piece at :: S A K O :: select older models and check out the info for the M995 TRG-S.
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Last edited by badaboom; 10-09-2007 at 09:09 AM.
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  #7  
Old 10-09-2007, 09:08 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: UK.
Posts: 95
M995

Yes the M995 is the TRG-S and I think chambered also in 338 Lapua.

I was looking at one in 7mm STW (it had been re-barrelled) but have decided against it.
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