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what vanes to use

 
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  #8  
Old 09-27-2011, 12:02 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: indiana
Posts: 19
Re: what vanes to use

Jon thanks for the advice im always trying to learn as much as poss. and i do have an open mind as far as the biscut its fairly new not a whole bunch of shot threw it and the van tec vanes dont do that i think i will stick with the areo vanes 2 for the strenght of the vane itself the van tec would be my second choice the stock black and white duravanes just seem alot cheaper my freind is grouping 3 inch at 100 yards with stock trigger 8 1/2 # so i think i can do better with my 2# trigger but thanks again will keep that in mind...

PS i beleive my tac is paper tuned but will check again
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  #9  
Old 09-28-2011, 12:12 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 391
Re: what vanes to use

Hi Infantrysold,
Earlier this evening I sent a message to Super 91 and asked him to please respond to this thread, since he has the greatest level of expertise in the area of vane performance. He has tested the majority of the field when it comes to different vanes.

Also, be very careful when looking to shoot good tight groups at 80 thru 100 yards. If your "parallax adjustment" is off at all, it will generally cause your groups to open up and spread from 3 to 10 inches at these distances. You can ask Len Backus about this problem, since he's had plenty of experience with it.

I do have one small suggestion for you as long as you are going to be shooting your TAC with the Whisker Biscuit. There is a product which is called "Venom", that is a lubricant and conditioner made specifically for the Whisker Biscuit arrow rests. It both reduces friction and helps waterproof and condition the bristles of a Whisker Biscuit. This should help reduce some of the wear on your arrow arrow rest and prevent it from freezing on cold mornings while hunting.

Regards,

Jon
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  #10  
Old 09-28-2011, 05:45 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: SW virginia
Posts: 82
Re: what vanes to use

Hey guys, Xbow755 asked me to come by and share some of the data I had in hopes you might be able to benefit some.

First off, paper tune your bow. Adjust the nocking point left or right till it appears to be in the center of the track in the rail. Do this just by eye to start. Then load and arrow, bring the bow to full draw and engage the safety. Now sight down on top of the shaft to see that it is lined up in the groove in the rail and is parallel with that. Also, if the cocking sled is riding to one side of the rail or the other when you cock the bow, you are not in the center.

Now shoot through paper with a bare shaft. I most often get a tail low, point high tear with a brand new TAC out of the box. I have tuned 3 brand new TACs over the past several days and all were just like this. Move the rest up in this case, opposite if you are tail high. Don't chase your tail with the rest......that is a little humor there....

Once you get the perfect bullet hole, and I mean perfect because I have not set up one single TAC at this point that did not achieve this, you will be ready for the next step. One other thing to do is make sure the string is in spec as far as cam lean and axle to axle. If these are not right you will have a harder time getting that perfect bullet hole.

Now I have tested and am testing a number of different fletchings on the TAC shafts. There is a whole lot to learn first about indexing the shafts and checking the spine and all that. Xbow755 is extremely well versed in that and maybe has expounded on that here on the forum. If not, go read some of the article Xbow755 has written on the subject.

First off, if you want to know if the fletchings are hitting the cables, as you crank the bow back very slowly, watch and you will see if they do. If they do not as you crank it back, they will not as the arrow goes forward. Some bows sit differently when in perfect tune so it is possible for one bow to not hit and the next to be hitting the cables. One bow I tuned the other day had the biscuit at the lowest setting before the bow was in perfect tune. The next one was all the way at the top.

I do not have time to expound on the subject a ton this morning, but will get back more later.

Xbow755 is right on the money with the Scorpion Venom biscuit spray. It must be a silicon based spray that lubricates the bristles and waterproofs them somewhat, but also makes them extremely "slippery" on one another. This makes them get out the way of one another when there is fletching contact. There is much less wear on vanes when I am using this product.

The 60x120 is the only fletching config you can use unless you machine the front part of the picatinny rail off the bow and use the HHA Optimizer to mount your scope on. I have done so as a few others and this allows us to use any standard 3 fletch config at this point. But if you have not done so, the 60x120 is what you want to use.

The factory Duravane 3-D in 3" is one of the best performers out of the box so-to-speak. It works like it is supposed to. But Dorge's Aerovane II' work very well too. I have also tried NAP Quik Spin Speed Hunters in 2", Flex-fletch, Fusion vanes, Blazer vanes, and a few others.

I am just now testing the 3 fletch config and have 4 sets of shafts fletched up with a straight offset instead of the standard straight but I have not shot these. I plan on doing that on Thursday and Friday in hopes I can find one that works even better than the straight fletch.

Dorge's Aerovane II fletched with only 2 vanes and fletched 180 degrees from one another also worked very well, so well I hunted with them last year. But he had to make some slight changes to the design and now it does not work quite as well. That was really fun to shoot when it did.

I will get back on here at a later date and continue my findings on the subject.

Last edited by Super 91; 09-28-2011 at 05:49 AM. Reason: spelling errors
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  #11  
Old 09-28-2011, 05:59 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 50
Re: what vanes to use

Quote:
One other thing to do is make sure the string is in spec as far as cam lean and axle to axle. If these are not right you will have a harder time getting that perfect bullet hole.
What should I be looking at to determine if the String is in spec ? Make sure the white line mark on the cam is the same in relation to the cable at rest on each cam ?

What about cam lean ? Just visually check to make sure both cams are in the same plane when looking from the side ?

I have to order a new mounting plate for my whisker biscuit as the one that came with the bow does not allow me to fine tune. I can loosen the screws, but the channel the screws sit in is not smooth and when the screws are tightened it moves the channel too much.

Next is to restring my xbow. As I had an unfortunate misfire at about half draw that unstrung the cams. Visually the limbs to not appear damaged from this, but I'll have to see. Not sure why it released while was drawing it back, but it could be related to the string jump.

WildWillie
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  #12  
Old 09-30-2011, 04:00 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 9
Re: what vanes to use

Wild Willie,
My guess is the misfire was caused exactly by what you said, STRING JUMP. I had this happen when I was letting an arrow down last year. Thankfully I always keep my weapons pointed in a safe direction. The string jump has been a known issue with some of these Xbows when the gears in the crank are damaged (I believe thats what it is anyway) It may just be the way the draw sting is initially wound, although I do not think that was the problem. I had my arrow falling off while cranking it in, and it would bend my whisker biscuit.
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  #13  
Old 09-30-2011, 08:06 AM
Bronze Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 50
Re: what vanes to use

Yes I spoke to a PSE Tech person yesterday and they mentioned that the jump is usually caused by the string winding up upon itself on the back spool then slipping to the low side at some point. This causes the jump in the string. The knot of the draw string needs to sit completely flush on the spool or it can result in this kind of jump.

I've ordered a maintenance kit from here and will replace the cables/string. The serving that is wound around one of the cables has broke and is coming undone. Also the Tech rep said the strings should be replaced often because of the stress this x-bow causes upon them.

After close examination the limbs look good, but I am missing one of the plastic spacers that go between the cams and the limbs. I am replacing that and hope to have everything back together this afternoon.

WildWillie
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  #14  
Old 09-30-2011, 01:17 PM
Silver Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 391
Re: what vanes to use

Hi WildWillie,
The missing spacer on your cam can account for two different problems. One is the cam lean and the other could be cam wobble which usually leads to your string or cables jumping track intermittently.

How did you find out that one of the spacers was missing? Was this through working with the PSE Product Support engineer?

Regards,

Jon
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