Re: TAC 15/15i Basic Unpublished Information
Hi Egypt and RMbeach,
Super91 has been doing a great job of testing different vanes on the TAC Arrows in an attempt to achieve optimal flight performance on these arrow shafts. Nobody including him have done the basic work to figure out if the spines of the PSE Arrow Shafts are aligned properly before the arrows have the vanes put on at the factory.
A spin tester for graphite arrows is a very expensive piece of equipment and is used to mark the stiff side of the spin.
In the old days we used to be able to see the stiff side of the spin on aluminum arrows because the seam was visible the full length of the shaft, if you looked closely.
As long as all vanes or feathers are place in the same location on each shaft, so the stiff side is aligned exactly the same for each shaft, the flight characteristics should remain the same as long as you can control the weight of each shaft within less than 1/2 grain. This is achieved during the gluing process of the insert on the end of the arrow. A hot melt ferrule cement is used and more or less can be added to the insert to achieve less than 1/100th of a grain of difference between your heaviest and lightest arrow. All that's needs needed is a simple cheap electronic gram scale.
With carbon arrows there are no outward markings on the shaft to indicate where the stiff side of an arrow shaft is. There is a way to determine the stiff side of a carbon spin using a tub of water, but it's time consuming and no where near as accurate as a spin testing machine.
Most major arrow shaft producers understand the importance of Spine Testing and matching the spine of there expensive carbon arrows. PSE may or may not have this knowledge because they are relatively new in the game of producing carbon shafts. Even if they do understand it, this does not mean that the people assembling their arrows understand the need to place their Dynavanes in precisely the same locations on every shaft the produce.
Bare shafts have no grooves or markings for the placement of vanes. You only see what appears like grooves when you lose a vane and then you are looking at glue residue that forms what looks like a groove.
A Fletching Jig is a tool that holds your arrow shaft in a precise alignment and uses a clamp to hold a vane or a feather and places it against a bare arrow shaft after you've placed a thin line of glue along the underside of the vane or feather. Once the glue sets up the Fletching Jig rotates the arrow shaft a precise number of degrees to align the placement of the next vane. Different NOC Receivers and different Jigs permit different spacings of your vanes and can also allow the vanes to be aligned either straight in parallel with the shaft of with a certain amount of offset or rotation on the shaft. This all creates different flight performances of the arrow when shot.
What you refer to as old grooves are probably the surplus glue residue from vanes that have come off the arrow. This is usually removed by light scrapping with a dull knife or razor blade, being careful not to damage the carbon shaft. It can also be removed by applying a glue debonding liquid.
All shafts must be thoroughly cleaned using denatured alcohol to remove surface oils and other dirt before beginning the gluing of vanes. This makes a major difference on how solid your vanes adhere to the arrow shaft. I do this for aluminum or carbon shafts. You simply wet a rag with the denatured alcohol, wrap it around each shaft and squeeze as you run the rag down the length of each shaft. Place the finished shafts in a bucket or other holder for 20 minutes to air dry. This opens the pores of the arrow shaft and assures they are clean and ready to fletch.
If using an instant setting glue, I would recommend the use of a gel form as opposed to a liquid form. The gel is much easier to control and it does not run the way the liquids do. It's a much neater finished product.
Finally, there could be a great deal to be learned and gained from the testing that Super91 is doing with the new Aero II Vanes, but unless the basics in the equipment and tuning have been verified it may be complicating and masking the real problem. My testing and work is to insure that the fundamentals have been properly tested and not just overlooked or bypassed, otherwise his nice work will have appeared to provide no real improvements due to the problems that we are discussing.
Glad you guys are joining the forum and I hope you will continue to add your input and discussions. We all learn when we can share our knowledge and information.